If you own an older home that has existing galvanized pipes for your plumbing, there will come a time to consider an entire house re-pipe. Galvanized pipes, in time, will eventually close up, meaning that the water the home gets from the city has sediment in it and will more than likely build up on the inside of some, if not, all of your plumbing. This is evident if you have changing water flow at your faucets and are constantly removing the aerator at the end of the faucet to remove a build up of debris.
As the galvanized pipe ages, it can burst or clog for a variety of reasons and lets hope you can access the plumbing problem to repair the line in question or replace it. In some older homes you can access the plumbing by crawling under the house (raised foundation) to get to the problem. In other homes that have a concrete slab, as the foundation, you may have to cut into the concrete to access these problems, or in certain cases you can re-route the plumbing up through the walls and into the attic and come back down to the area of repair, or installation.
Older track homes prior to the 1970's were built with this kind of piping unless it was specified to use a different material.
Copper piping has become a standard in most home building these days, with a few other materials like polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or cross-linked polyethylene (PEX). Working with copper entails cutting the runs and turns to size and sweating the connections together with a nap gas torch kit, flux and solder. The pvc type material mentioned, requires gluing the fittings together, while the pex material uses compression fittings to connect the fittings.
Some of the materials mentioned come in different thickness and /or ratings. The thicker or higher rating of the material, the more the cost. So, you have to ask yourself if the property is worth the extra expense. If this your own property and you have no intention of moving any time soon, by all means get the better of the materials.
If you are handy with tools and have any knowledge of plumbing, you more than likely can do some or all of any repairs and installs you desire. It does take some time to plan out these projects, learn about the differences of old and new products and know what tooling is necessary.
So, lets recap...
Know the age of the home and the realization that galvanized pipes will fail over time and repairs or replacements will be needed
Having the understanding of different materials and how time affects them will make your decision to upgrade go easier for any repairs or new installs
Knowing where to access areas to do any work helps considerably
Having the correct tools and the knowledge of how to use them will go a long way during the repair process
Thanks for reading my articles.
I am a avid repair person, with a wide range of knowledge in building and maintaining residential and commercial properties. I've starting writing to get you some knowledge of how to approach home repair issues, so you may also maintain and repair your own property.
Concrete storm drain contractors are hired whenever construction projects involve the installation of drainage systems. Without doubt, storm drains are one of the most essential engineering marvels of the modern world. They are used to carry away rain water to avert flooding in streets and surrounding properties.
Most often, concrete storm drain contractors perform work associated with municipal jobs. Drainage systems are positioned throughout communities in residential neighborhoods, shopping centers, industrial parks, and along roads and highways.
The role of public systems is to manage water that accumulates during heavy rainfall or snow melt. Developing plans and installing pipeline for municipal projects is an extensive process that involves numerous people.
Most people are familiar with street gutters which are placed alongside streets and sidewalks. This equipment provides an opening for storm water to enter the system. Once water passes through gutters it enters a catch basin and passes through a series of underground pipes until reaching a point of release.
Release points are generally large bodies of water such as oceans, rivers, or lakes. However, water is sometimes transported to manmade retention ponds where it is stored until it can be released or taken to another location.
Another option for storage is underground water tanks which can hold up to 40,000 gallons. Installing underground tanks necessitates meticulous planning to ensure the ground is shored up and tanks are leak-free.
If system components are incorrectly installed or have mechanical breakdowns, the system will not be able to handle storm surge. Because of the severe consequences that can happen if systems fail, equipment must be serviced on a regular basis. This includes flushing systems, clearing debris from catch basins, and inspecting all components.
One of the greatest challenges of drainage systems is controlling the level of pollutants. Since storm drains need to quickly eliminate water it is nearly impossible to include filtration systems. Doing so would bog down the system and cause more harm than good.
Public systems do make use of oil and water separation devices to minimize the amount of synthetic oil discharged into waterways. Petroleum products wreak havoc on aquatic life and can wipe out entire eco systems.
Furthermore, engineers are constantly testing filtration systems that can be used in public drainage systems. A few that are currently in use are storm water chambers, geomembrane liners, fabric filters, and fossil filters. Each of these has proven to be effective in lessening the amount of debris that passes through systems.
Design engineers perform multiple calculations to determine which pipe dimensions are best suited for the project. The rate that water can flow through pipes is generally regulated by individual municipalities. If rates surpass permissible levels, engineers must include plans for retention ponds or underground storage tanks.
Engineers work with subsurface utility engineering (SUE) firms to obtain underground images and data about the location. SUE makes use of non-invasive technology to provide 3D maps.
This information reveals if there are any existing pipelines or utilities that could interfere with installation of drainage systems. Since its inception, SUE has greatly reduced workplace accidents by identifying potential hazards before contractors commence with excavation.
There is no doubt that installing public drainage systems is a complex task that needs to be performed by skilled storm drain contractors. Always take time to investigate pipeline companies and make certain they possess the experience needed for the job.
People rarely notice the nondescript concrete storm drain structure positioned along streets and highways. While they aren't something that stands out they are needed to get rid of excess storm water. Otherwise, roads would flood each time it rains.
Most of the components of concrete storm drain structures are installed below the surface or hidden by embankments. For the most part, the only parts people see are street gutters and catch basins.
Regions that don't have drainage systems can be seriously affected by flooding. These systems provide an outlet to rain water and reduce incidences of rapidly rising water.
Storm drains are able to draw water into pipeline by taking advantage of gravitational forces. Roadways, parking lots, and other ground surfaces are constructed at a slight degree of tilt so water naturally flows downhill and into the system.
Creating construction plans and installing public systems is not an easy process. Countless considerations must be given to every aspect of the project. Engineers evaluate data pertaining to present and future needs of the community to ensure the system can withstand population growth.
Data is provided for multiple situations, such as how many people will live in the area over the next several decades or the expected level of growth for commercial or retail sectors.
Anytime regions experience population growth, vacant land is turned into paved surfaces such as streets and parking lots. Given that storm water can't pass through solid surfaces it moves along until arriving at storm drains or a body of water. Rain water is like a magnet and picks up many things along the way including any toxic chemicals or debris.
Storm water is often filled with a variety of environmental contaminants. Most often, water is left untreated and discharged into whatever large body of water is close by. This can be ponds, lakes, rivers, and oceans.
Everyone knows environmental toxins are harmful to waterways, as well as anything that depends on the water supply for survival. Pollution can dampen the development and overall health of marine life, vegetation, and entire eco systems, which in turn creates health risks for human beings.
There are multiple steps to design and install municipal storm water drainage systems. Project owners have to partner with design engineers, subsurface utility engineering companies, and pipeline contractors, along with local bureaucrats. Public works projects generally take many months from start to finish.
Drainage systems consist of numerous components such as concrete catch basins, drop inlets, chambers, swales, manholes, water pipes, and outlet pipes. Collectively, these elements create a self-sufficient system that carries away storm water and helps circumvent flooding in communities, roads, and interstate systems.
Lessening the level of accumulative rainfall on public highways is extremely important. Wet asphalt and flooded streets can create havoc for motorists. Inability to stop, hydroplaning, and car crashes are common occurrences during rain and snow storms. Drainage systems help to quickly eliminate water to lessen incidence of accidents.
Storm drain construction is a complex task that necessitates contractors to undergo special training and become knowledgeable about EPA regulations. Devastating consequences can occur if systems are improperly installed. Therefore, it is always advisable to work with a reputable contractor experienced in the particular type of construction project.
Concrete foundation repair can come about due to the slabs settling and moving as a result of what is below them. Clay and soil have to be carefully prepared before any building work can be undertaken upon the surface. So if this work was carried out badly, or not enough research was undertaken before building, the concrete can only fail.
Most ground foundations move slightly with time. They may be clay, or filled in with soil, and the builder will take this into account, when designing the structure, which is going to stand on it.
But even the best planned projects run into trouble, and concrete foundations can move or sink. Underpinning is the commonest method provided by engineering firms when it comes to repairing a foundation with problems.
At first this can be a traumatic time for anyone facing the problem of repairing a building with a failing foundation. As it strike at the heart of why the building was put there in the first place, and many contractors could be facing ruin.
The good news is, that modern technology has come so far, the solutions are not impossible.
The two commonest methods of tackling this problem, are Slabjacking and Piering.
Slabjacking is the process of pumping grout beneath the beam or slab, to produce a lifting force, restoring the desired levelling. This is often used when the concrete slab has simply sunk into the earth. But can be used, when engineers find a structure to be uneven. One of the commonest uses can be found in stabalizing, when cracks start to appear in a pavement or driveway.
Filling with pressure grout is one of the best methods of stabalizing a structure, when a void has been found beneath the site. These voids often occur due to water running beneath the surface. So cement slurry can be pumped in to fill the gap and divert away any unwanted water.
Piering is the method of driving steel pipe pilings into the ground to counter-act the results of a failing structure. A hydraulic ram will drive a section of Galvanised or epoxy-coated steel pipe into the soil. They can also be screwed into the ground with Helical Piers via a torque motor.
Concrete sidewalks can vary in shapes, colors and be formed into any shape you can imagine. Before starting on this project, look around at other homes and businesses to see what can be done but don't be limited by what you see. Use your imagination. Colored concrete is available today from most Redi-mix suppliers and concrete color stains are also another way to obtain a beautiful finished product. There are "cast-on" products out there that can provide a non-slip surface, a super hard surface and even anti-spalling compounds that help keep the sidewalk from chipping due to the use of winter salt. Most redi-mix concrete dries in some shade of beige color depending on the color if the sand and Portland cement used. Ask your supplier where he has poured his product and go look at it. This will give you an idea of what the "aged" product will look like later. Once you have decided what color concrete you are going to use, decide what strength concrete you need. I recommend the use of 3000# strength concrete for all sidewalks except very heavy use or vehicle traffic. If vehicles will be crossing the sidewalk, use 4000# or 5000#. It will cost a few dollars more a yard, but will last a great deal longer.
TOOLS REQUIRED-
Hammer, sledge, string line, and level with tripod. 4' hand level, pointed and flat shovels, wood 2x4 for screeding (leveling) of the concrete, bolt cutters, safety glasses, work gloves, fine broom and two edger's called sidewalk edger's and v-groove styles. A metal sidewalk edge finishing tool, a V-groove tool for center joints and a steel trowel are a must. Most masons prefer to use a magnesium float to put the initial finish on their walks prior to applying the final broom finish.
MATERIALS REQUIRED-
Concrete is ordered by the cubic yard. It is quite simple to figure out how many yards you need for your project using the following formula: Length x Width x Height (thickness) divided by 27 =? Cubic yards. A typical example: Your sidewalk is 3' wide, 3-0 feet long by 4" thick. Using the formula above: 3' x 30'x.33 /27=1.1 cubic yards. You cannot order.1 cubic yards. So it is either 1 or 1.5 yards. All Redi-mix companies charge what they call a short load charge for anything under 6 yards. So there are choices here to be made. Is there anything else that needs concrete? Make the walk a little wider? Add a patio area? Ask the Redi-mix company what the charge is for 1.5 or 2 yards. The price may be the same anyway. While we here, I want to spend a minute discussing getting the concrete to your site. Trucks are heavy. Very heavy. If your sidewalk or patio is in the rear yard, either the truck has to be able to get to it or you will have to wheel it in wheelbarrows. Wheeling 1 yard is not bad, wheeling 5 or 6 yards is a brute. You will need plenty of help and good wheelbarrows. Redi-mix companies also charge extra for any time spent over 1 hour on site. IF you decide to take the truck into the rear yard, be prepared for lawn damage. Concrete companies are not responsible for damage to your property if you direct them to drive over the lawn. Worse yet is if they pass over the septic system, buried pipes, etc. and damage them. BE SURE there is nothing underneath that can de damaged. Don't guess!
A Redi-Mix truck can weigh over 40,000 pounds! It will leave a lasting impression on your lawn and can damage lightweight asphalt driveways. Be careful where you send it.
You will need some misc. mixed lumber to form your concrete walk. 2x4's in long lengths work best. If you have a curve in the walk, it is best formed using strips of non-tempered masonite or 1/4" plywood. Whatever you use, it does not have to be pretty. It is going to be removed after the pour. Buy a bundle of 1"x2" or 1"x3" for stakes. These can be cut into 1 foot lengths and points cut on them. You will also need a couple of pounds of 8 penny common nails.
LAYOUT-
The easiest way to layout a new sidewalk is to use your garden hose. Simply lay the hose out on the ground where you want the walk to go. Forms do not have to be made of wood. Things such as brick, wood edging, pre-formed plastic edging are all used and produce many different edge finishes. If you use these types of things, just take extra care not to splash concrete on them. Concrete stains or discolors very easily and does not wash off well. When everything dries, the concrete you think you washed off, leaves a permanent stain. Another very helpful item available today for homeowner use is upside down paint at most hardware or box stores and comes in a variety of colors. This makes it very easy to spray a layout line for digging or removing sod or soil. DO NOT spray your hose unless you want it to be that color for a very long time. A few carefully placed spots that you connect after removing the hose is fine.
Make sure that you mark out the lines a few inches wider than the finished walk width. You need to get your 2 x4's and stakes inside the excavation and in most cases flush with the surrounding ground. If you are going to expose the edges of the new walk above ground, you will also have to finish the edges when you pour.
GROUND PREPARATION-
Never, never place concrete on frozen ground or mud. You need a firm foundation base for the new walk. You must remove the concrete thickness of earth plus the stone you will be placing underneath. A 4" walk usually gets 4" of stone base or good clean run-of bank sand and gravel. After removing the 8" of earth, place your sub-base material and tamp into place. Make it slightly wider than you walk width. Your forms will sit on top of the base. NOTE: Now is the time to run any yard lighting wires or conduits under the walk before you pour. Even if the lighting is in the future, you will be glad you make preparations now. Place a piece of 1" PVC conduit with caps under the walk for future use.
FORM WORK-
OK, we are using wood forms for this walk. Layout your 2x4's along the walk and drop stakes every few feet. Your 2x4s will be installed end to end so a stake is required at each joint. Starting on one side, install your 2x4's using enough stakes to firmly hold them in place. They must be straight and plumb. Nail the 2x4"s to each stake but DO NOT drive the heads all the way in. You have to remove these stakes later and it is a lot easier to get a hold of the nail head if it sticking out a little. If you have curves in your walk and are using 1/4" material to form you will of course have to use many more stakes. Just make sure the form is not going to move when you place the concrete against it.
Now cut a piece of scrap 1x2 the width of your walk. (3' in this case). Using this as a guide, install the opposite side of your formwork. It will save you having to measure over and over again and speeds up the work.
CONCRETE PLACING-
Ok, now we are ready to go. Check your list. Forms are all nailed? Not raining? Plenty of help? Got all the tools you need?
And most important did you order the concrete? Most companies require at least two days notice for homeowners to order. Commercial accounts come first due to their large volume of orders. BE READY! Remember the truck clock starts when he gets there, not when you start pouring. Using your garden hose, if the ground is very dry, slightly dampen it. This will help prevent premature drying of the concrete by the ground sucking the water out of the concrete before you get finished. Starting at the end the farthest from the truck (you will see why later) start placing the concrete in the forms. One person must, using his trowel, push the concrete into place and do a preliminary leveling within the forms. After placing a few feet of concrete, using a 2x4 as a screed, he can then level the entire width of the walk by sliding the 2x4 back forth over the top of the forms. You need one person leveling concrete with shovel, 2nd person using 2x4 as a screed to level concrete flush with the tops of forms and an extra third hand to wheel concrete, handle the chute, etc.
If a low spot in the concrete develops, just use the trowel to pickup some wet concrete and toss it in. Move back and re-screed over that area. If too much concrete develops in front of the screed just push or pull it into the area without concrete. You will soon get the hang of it. The people helping can watch as they pour the concrete from their wheelbarrows to be sure they don't overwhelm you. If you work slow and steady it goes pretty fast. OK, we now have the entire form filled with concrete. Place a little bit extra in one wheelbarrow and let the truck go. Now you need somewhere for the truck to wash out his chutes and you need to wash your tools and wheelbarrows. Concrete stains and gets HARD! Put it somewhere that can be easily cleaned later. Do not leave piles of concrete that cannot be moved.
FINISHING-
You get a few minutes break here. Have your favorite beverage and relax a little. The concrete will take a little while to start to setup but keep an eye on it. Touch it with your finger just like a cake. If it feels somewhat solid, now is the time to put the preliminary edge on it. Using the edger with a rolled lip, run it along the entire outside edges of your walk way. This will form a smooth sealed edge. You will have to pickup the edger many times and re-start. Just backup a few inches and moving ahead to remove the lip left when you picked the edger up. This will take some time so don't let the concrete "get away" (harden) on you. Once you have done an area, a 2nd person can start placing the v-grooves every 4 or 5 feet (less if you like the look). Using the edger, simply push the edger across the width of the walkway with enough pressure that both sides of the edger sit firmly on the concrete. This will leave a neat v-groove in the walk. You will get the hang of this very quickly. Don't worry for now about the little lip of concrete left on each side of the new groove and edges you made. Now using your broom, very lightly draw it across the width of the walk way being careful not to draw it across the v-grooves but do some very close to them and the edge of the walk. Read that sentence again. You can ruin the whole appearance of the walk if you mess this up. Be gentle but firm enough to leave broom lines in the concrete and wipe away the little lips of concrete you left behind when edging. The broom lines can be as heavy or as light as you like. This will leave a non-slip surface. Always broom across the path of the traffic, never with it. The trick here is to not to let the concrete harden before you are done. Start with a SMALL project and work your way up. After your first pour, you will know some of the tricks and better able to judge how fast concrete sets up.
Keep some plastic or tarps handy just in case you get a surprise downpour. You can quickly throw plastic over the pour and save it. If the rain washes out the top layer of concrete, the walk will be ruined.
It is very strongly suggested that you do not leave a smooth or hard trowel finish on any outside walk. It will become very slippery when wet. A broom finished side walk is what you normally see. There are colored aggregates that can be scattered over a walk to add color and a non-slip surface at the same time.
OTHER FINISHES-
Stamping-There are available metal stamping tools that can be used to place an imprint in wet concrete to simulate stone, pavers, brick, etc. These can produce a dramatic effect from plain concrete but take some experience to use.
COLORING-
You may be able to buy pre-colored concrete from your supplier. It is expensive but can come in many different colors. It is produced from regular wet concrete with a powder added to the mix while still in the truck. Pour the entire area in one pour. Just a slight change in the amount of powder or water or sand in each truck can produce a different shade of concrete. This will show when dry. The powder is measured in ounces with a postal scale. It is that exacting. Concrete suppliers have color charts for concrete but this needs to be ordered well ahead of time as they do not stock all colors.
EXPOSED AGGREGATE-
This is a really tricky method of finishing concrete. You purchase your concrete specifying the use of round washed river rock 3/4" or smaller. If you visit the concrete supplier, you can see what color the gravel he has available. Most river rock is beige/brown in various shades. It is not an exact science though and there will be some variation from week to week of what you can get. I have on occasion for a very large project, ordered enough stone to supply the total amount of yards required for the work. The supplier will of course want payment as he will have to wait to supply it as you need it, but it is one way to control final color and costs. Placement of the concrete is the same as any other side walk however the finishing is much different. After edging your walk, using your trowel you must place a flat finish on the walkway and let it sit. At just the right time, using your garden hose and spray nozzle, you literally wash off the top of the concrete removing the cement and leaving the stones beneath exposed. It is tricky but leaves a gorgeous finish. Too much water or pressure and you undermine the stones, too little and the concrete won't wash off enough to leave the stones exposed. The trick here is wash to before it gets too hard. You might well want to try process on a small test sample during a different pour. Washing lets the color of the stones show through. Do not try to finish after washing; you will smear the final finish
CLEANUP-
Always clean up your tools and yourself as soon as possible after the pour. Concrete can cause serious burns to the skin due to the lye in the concrete and many people are quite allergic to it. Always wear eye protection when pouring concrete. No matter how careful you are placing the concrete, it splashes everywhere. A small drop in your eye can cause serious pain and permanent eye injury. Place covers on anything you do not want concrete to get upon. Shrubs, flowers, lawns, etc. should be protected.
Many times, the average person uses the terms "cement" and "concrete" interchangeably without realizing that there is a difference. Even when the handyman refers to "cement," there is often a question as to exactly what he means. Before going into the details on mixing and various projects, here is a definition of terms:
1. Portland cement is a manufactured product purchased in sacks that usually contain 1 cubic foot.
2. Cement is a mixture of Portland cement, sand and water.
3. Concrete is a mixture of Portland cement and sand with gravel added to give it strength and bulk, plus water.
4. Mortar is a mixture of Portland cement, sand and water with about 10% hydrated lime added.
5. Grout is a flowing mass of cement or concrete.
How Much of Each?
For most cement jobs - to set flagstones or patch a house foundation, you need 1 part of Portland cement to 2½'' parts of clean, fine sand.
For concrete jobs, the proportion varies depending upon the use to which the concrete is put.
For mortar mixes - for playing brick or concrete block or repointing brick - use 1 part mortar cement or 1 part Portland cement with 10% lime added to 2½^'' parts fine, clean sand plus water.
Basic Tools for Concrete Work
Here are several of the basic tools you need when doing cement or concrete work about the house:
1. General-purpose trowel - for placing cement or concrete when doing any concrete work.
2. Pointing trowel - for smaller repair and patching jobs and also finishing details, especially the joint between rows of brick.
3. Wood float - for finishing the surface, making it smooth but with a gritty texture.
4. Steel float - for finishing the surface, making it smooth, slick and hard.
5. Edger - for finishing sidewalks and large surfaces where rounded corners are desired.
6. Strike board - for striking off the excess of the concrete; it leaves the surface level.
7. Tamper - for removing air inclusions in thick sections of freshly poured concrete.
8. Broom - for finishing surface of concrete jobs with a rough, non-slip surface.
Making a Measuring Box
When doing any extensive mixing of your own cement or concrete, a measuring box is exceedingly helpful, especially when using large quantities. You can make this bottomless measuring box in just a few minutes and avoid counting the ingredients by the shovels-full.
Use ¾'' plywood or 1" thick lumber to make a box with four sides - a cubic foot - 12" high, 12" wide and 12" deep. Secure the sides with screws set about 2" apart. Two short lengths of 2x2 attached on the sides make it easy to move the measuring box about.
How to Mix
All the ingredients must be thoroughly mixed to do the job. If you have failed to mix the Portland cement with the other materials, you undoubtedly will encounter difficulty later; the job just won't turn out right. If you follow several basic rules, you will be able to handle cement and concrete like an expert.
1. Mix the cement or concrete near the place where it is to be used.
2. Mix the cement or concrete just before you are ready to use it. Once mixed, the cement or concrete begins to set.
3. You can mix cement or concrete in a wheelbarrow, on any concrete surface or on a sheet of ply-wood. However, once you have finished pouring the mix, wash the surface off completely so that no cement or concrete hardens and sticks.
4. It is best for the homeowner doing a job to mix about a half a bag of Portland cement with the needed amounts of sand and gravel (when making concrete). This is about the most convenient amount for a handyman to handle at one time.
5. Mix the Portland cement and sand thoroughly when dry. After these two are fully mixed you can add gravel when making concrete.
6. Only after the gravel is thoroughly blended in with the Portland cement and sand should you add the water.
7. Always measure the ingredients - don't just guess. As a guide, if you don't have a "measuring box," use a shovel to measure. Remember that 1 shovel of Portland cement is equal to 1 shovel of damp sand or 2 shovels of dry sand or 2 shovels of gravel.
8. Follow the formula necessary for the mix you are preparing. Cement and concrete used for different purposes contain different proportions of Portland cement, sand and gravel.
9. When mixing concrete, the size of the gravel you use depends upon the thickness of the concrete you are pouring. The gravel should be not less than one-fourth nor more than one-third the thickness of the concrete mass. For example, when pouring a 4" thick layer of concrete, use clean, hard gravel in sizes from ¼'' up to about 1" or 1½''.
READY-MIXED CONCRETE - Relatively new is the availability of already mixed concrete from local companies. The concrete is delivered in a special truck and is ready for pouring in place.
The handyman can also use another form of ready-mixed concrete; this is sold already mixed in bags. All he has to do is add the water. This ready-mixed concrete and cement is prepared at the factory. Here is all you have to do:
1. Empty the bag of ready-mixed cement, and mix it once more by hand while still dry.
2. Add water as specified on the bag. A good proportion is one gallon of water to 90 pounds of the concrete mixture.
3. Mix thoroughly using a hoe, shovel or trowel.
4. Use the mix immediately; in no case should wet mixture stand for more than 45 minutes.
Concrete Forms
Many home improvement projects you will undertake involve the making of a wooden form. These forms should be made of sound lumber, free of knots and decay. The lumber should be dressed or smoothed on at least one side because it is easier to remove and leaves a better finish. This is particularly important if the surface is to be painted afterwards.
If the cement of concrete will not be painted afterwards, you may use oil, shellac or varnish over the wood to make them easier to remove.
If the form is set in the ground, as for sidewalks, stake the outside of the form. But if the object you make is separate, as a stone for a walk, you can set the form on a sheet of tarpaper or roofing paper.
Always align the form to see that the tops are level. Also make certain that the concrete fills in all the form and that there are no "holes" in the mass.
The Curing Process
When a high degree of water-tightness, durability and strength is desired, the cement or concrete should be cured. Curing is a process that delays the evaporation of the water in the mix. It lengthens and intensifies the hardening process, which is simply a chemical reaction between the Portland cement and the water.
The curing process continues as long as water is present to hydrate the cement. If concrete is not moist-cured, the surface dries first, often just after finishing, and before hardening of the mass below. Thus floors, sidewalks and all surfaces subject to wear will last longer if they are moist-cured for several days. Moist-curing of all patch work is essential.
The curing process itself is very simple. The cement must be covered and kept moist. The covering material can be wet burlap, canvas or straw. It should be kept wet by periodic sprinkling for at least five days. The covering should be placed on as soon as it can be done without marring the surface.
Walls and vertical surfaces can be protected by leaving the forms in place temporarily or by hanging the covering over them. In some cases, the covering material can be dispensed with as long as the surface is kept wet by periodic sprinkling.
One of the best coverings for curing is sheet plastic, available in large sizes and in rolls. About three or four hours after the surface of the concrete has been smoothed, it will be hard enough to take the plastic covering without sticking. Tack the plastic to the wooden forms, where used, or tape it in place with masking tape. The plastic will prevent water evaporation so no periodic sprinkling is necessary.
Make a "Memory Walk"
A "Memory Walk" leading to your driveway or curving around your garden can be a source of constant enjoyment to the entire family.
Such a walk is not too difficult to make. After your first stones are laid, you have a continuing project to keep memorable family dates alive.
The first stones for the walk can contain all the important dates you now have. There should be one with the date of your wedding; another for the birthday of your first child; if the family is growing, have a stone imprinted with the birthday of each child. You might include the date you bought your first home as well as other dates that bring back memories.
The stones can be made from a reliable dry pre-mixed concrete that needs only the addition of water to make a good workable mix. Use the concrete mix instead of the mortar or sand mix. You want strength for the stones.
A simple form made from 2x2 lumber will start you off. You will need 10' to 12'. Notch near the ends so the form will fit together like a child's building logs. In making these forms, you don't have to be as precise as in cabinet work. In fact, you can be downright sloppy and come out all right. Be sure the tops are level, though, so your stones will be level. Make the forms with inside dimensions about two feet by two feet. This will give you square stones, but won't be too difficult to handle when you go to lay them. One 90-pound bag of the dry pre-mixed concrete will fill this form with the addition of about one gallon of water. This will give you four square feet of stone at a cost ranging between 40¢ and 45¢ per square foot, depending on the part of the country you live in.
An old piece of tarpaper can serve as the base when pouring the concrete. If you start during inclement weather or in the winter, you can pour the stones in your garage or basement. Let each stone cure about 24 hours, and you can make one each evening.
Mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow using a garden hoe to thoroughly work the water into the mix. Then use a shovel to fill the form. Use a strike board made from scrap lumber to level off the mix. Then float with a steel trowel to get a smooth finish. Use an edger to give a slight curve to the top of the stones.
After you have this smooth finish, mark the date with a stick or piece of pipe. Use something you can handle easily. You can use script or block printing. Do this soon after you have smoothed the surface and before the concrete has set up too much.
If you want to start a series showing how your children are growing up, have them make footprints in the concrete. Better use old shoes. You can easily scrape the mix off. Leave enough space beneath the footprints for you to mark the date. Then each year on their birthdays, make a new stone with date and footprints. Replace one stone in your walk with the new one.
After the stones are completed, lay them in a bed of sand. With a space of a couple of inches between each stone, there will be no danger of cracking due to frost. The stones will be about two inches thick, if your form lumber has been properly dressed. The spaces between the stones can be filled with sand. Your pathway, of course, should be the width of the stones - two feet - and the depth - two inches. You will need to dig the ground out to these dimensions if you want the walk level with your grass. Or, you might wish to simply lay the stones out in a walk pattern on top of the grass. By using sand as your laying base, you can keep the walk flexible for the addition of the new stones. Since the stones will be relatively loose, they may heave during the winter. But it's not much trouble to push them back into place.
The notched forms can be stored for use when you want to make a new stone.
Memories can fade easily. With a concrete "Memory Walk," you can have a constant and up-to-date reminder of the times that have meant the most in your life.
What is Concrete Cutting?
Concrete cutting is a process of controlled sawing, drilling and removal of concrete performed by skilled operators using special saws that use diamond impregnated blades. Unlike the old- fashioned dusty "jack hammer" method, modern concrete cutting leaves a smooth attractive finish and utilizes water so as not to create any dust or mess. There are many different kinds of concrete cutting but the most common are wall sawing, core drilling and slab or flat sawing.
Wall Sawing is the process of cutting openings such as doors or windows in concrete walls, usually no more than 12" thick but in some cases up to 24" thick. This is accomplished by using a saw that attaches to a track on the wall to be cut. This process utilizes an enormous 30" or even larger diameter diamond blade that can cut 12" or more of concrete all of the way through from one side. This aspect of our business requires the most skill and cannot easily be done by your average "do it yourselfer." As stated, wall sawing may entail cutting openings in concrete foundations but may also include lowering a foundation elevation, entire foundation removal and also the cutting of concrete retaining walls in part or in whole. This type of concrete cutting requires skill and experience to cut perfectly smooth plumb and level openings with virtually no dust or mess, so it is a rather expensive service. Most concrete cutting companies charge a minimum of $425 just to take their equipment to a site and cut.
Homeowners that build additions on to their home that have basements or cellars commonly find they need to cut into their existing concrete foundation to add an entry or passage between the new and existing basements. It is much easier and in most cases less expensive to have this service performed during the construction process and not after.
Core Drilling is the process of drilling perfectly round holes through concrete walls and floors. The diameters of the holes range from 1" to 12" round but average 5" for most homeowner applications. In commercial applications core holes can range anywhere up to 60" round and more. Core holes are used for "utility penetrations" such as electrical, plumbing and heating but are also commonly used for venting furnaces or clothes dryers. Although not recommended, core drilling can be performed by an advanced "do it yourselfer" and the equipment necessary to perform core drilling is readily available at your local tool rental and supply store. Most companies have a minimum charge of $250 to core a hole for you and it can take a professional as little as 10 minutes to unload his equipment, core the hole, and reload his equipment. Yet, I have seen homeowners rent the equipment and spend an entire weekend trying to core a single hole and then call a professional to complete the project. Just like with any trade a professional concrete cutter will make his job look easy.
Slab sawing, also known as flat sawing, is used to cut horizontal flat concrete surfaces such as floors, bridge decks and pavement. Slab saws feature a diamond blade that is mounted on a walk-behind machine that requires only one operator. They can cut up to 33 inches in depth but generally only 6" or less is necessary in most homeowner applications. Slab sawing is the perfect solution for making penetrations or openings in concrete floors to access and repair a broken water pipe or sewer line. When a basement or cellar is being remodeled to add a bathroom the concrete is removed to add new plumbing for the fixtures. A slab saw is also useful in demolition work to break up and remove a cracked or unwanted patio, driveway or walkway. Sometimes a homeowner might want just part of a patio or other concrete slab cut in order to alter their landscaping. Attempting a slab saw project can be very time consuming for your average "do it yourselfer" however it can be accomplished. I always recommend spending a few extra bucks and saving yourself some very serious danger and aggravation by contracting a concrete cutting professional.
No matter what your project is, don't let a little concrete stand in your way. Concrete can be a homeowner's worst obstacle if he or she doesn't know that there are companies out there that specialize in removing it very quickly and neatly. To find a reputable concrete cutter I recommend that you start with the yellow pages and always check them out with your local Better Business Bureau or your local Department of Consumer Protection. To get more acquainted with the industry just do a search for "concrete cutting" and check out a few websites dedicated to the subject.
If you are having trouble with stoppages and blockages in your drainage pipes in the Dallas area due to the shifting nature of the ground or because the hard water of the area has affected the integrity of the pipes, then you might be exploring all of your options and gathering information on the best possible solutions. One solution that you may have heard of is called Pipe Bursting / Trenchless Technology.
You may wonder what is Pipe Bursting? It involves pulling a device through your existing pipe. A new pipe is attached to the device and is trailing behind it, being pulled along. As the device enters your current pipe, is bursts the old pipe by expanding inside of it. At the same time, it pulls the new pipe securely into place to replace the old one that has burst and shattered.
For this type of plumbing solution, as with most solutions for underground pipe problems -such as those very common in the Dallas Area - due to the shifting clay soil, it involves a certain amount of digging and excavating. There are two areas that would need to be dug and excavated. One area would be a pit that must be dug for the insertion of the device into the pipe that contains the blockage. The device would be pulled through the pipe by a cable. The cable is attached and pulled from the other end of the pipe. So, the other area that must be dug would be at the other end of the pipe, where the pulling machine is located. Basically you would have 2 pits dug, one at the back end of the pipe for insertion, and one at the other end of the pipe for pulling.
Any digging that is required for underground pipes to be repaired creates certain disadvantages. You oftentimes will damage the lawn, plants and landscaping, and it is a real challenge to avoid all sprinkler system plumbing as well. If the problem pipe is underneath the foundation of your house, or the driveway or sidewalks, then you also have the disadvantage of having to use a jackhammer to excavate and remove all of the concrete in the way. Not only does this create a mess, but you have to afterward repair and replace any damaged grass, plants, sprinklers, or indoor flooring. You also have to worry about ground settling around the fill dirt that was put back around the newly implanted pipe.
As the ground settles, it moves, and it can move pipes and plumbing along with it. Dallas Area soil in particular is vulnerable to this type of settling due to it's high concentration of clay. The nature of clay is its tendency to expand and contract. It is highly reactive to the moisture content of the soil. This expanding and contracting causes the soil to settle even faster, and this movement can definitely affect your underground plumbing. If you live in the area of Dallas, TX you will want to consult with an experienced Dallas plumber who is familiar with the traits of the local soil.
There are also some advantages to consider with Pipe Bursting. First of all, the possibility of future problems with the pipe are significantly reduced since you aren't just patching an old pipe. You are actually replacing it with a new one. You have peace of mind that the chances of future problems are greatly reduced, and since the pipe is brand new, you have better guarantees. Also, the excavation is limited to just the two digging areas, whereas when you replace the entire pipe the traditional way, by digging up your entire yard to get to the pipe and manually detach and replace it, you have a significant amount of excavation. Another unique advantage is that the new pipe, since it is one entire long pipe that was pulled underground to replace the old one, has NO seams. This limits the possibility of leaks along seams, but it also means that roots from trees and plants will stay out since they often entire pipes through these seams to access water inside the pipes.
A knowledgeable and trustworthy Dallas Plumbing Company or a licensed Dallas Plumber will be able to explain Pipe Bursting in more detail, as well as the other options you have available for solving your
As early as 3000 BC, the ancient Egyptians were the first to use the application of concrete in the building of their pyramids. Concrete mortar was used to secure each block in the construction and many pyramids are still standing today. The modern version of the concrete mortar is the cement such as the Portland cement.
Since then, concrete has been utilized on construction of homes, infrastructure, sculpture and roads. Concrete's affordability, versatility and ease of use make it a popular building material. The floor is usually the part of a building or house that is concreted for various reasons. One is because a concrete flooring is ideal for decorating the home in many interior schemes. A concrete floor also serves as an ideal base for installation of other flooring products like carpets, hardwood and tiles. In addition, floors made up of concrete are durable, costs cheaper due to lower fee of labor and easy to clean compared to other flooring types.
There are concrete floors which appear gray and plain just like those found in garages and factories. However there are also other types of concrete that are more chic and stylish. Concrete floors may be painted, stained, glossed or enhanced with other materials as preferred by the homeowner. Stained concrete floors are stained with colors to match any decoration. The color of the tile may be used as the same color to stain the concrete floor. Little bumps and ridges are created on textured concrete floors for a better traction while walking.
Nowadays, there is even a new technology utilized on concrete floors. Concrete floors tend to get cold especially on colder temperature so before the cement mixture is poured on the floor, radiant floor pipes or flexible tubing are first laid on the surface. With this technology of concrete flooring, the floor will be kept warm even in the coldest climate and you can walk on the floor even without any footwear.
The time it takes to finish the installation of a concrete floor is based on how big or small the floor area is. Apparently, a small floor area to be covered may only take a short period of time to complete while a larger area may be finished after a longer time period. For a standard living room or family room whose floors need to be concreted, expect the concreting task to be finished in a day or two. Moreover if you want the floor to have additional finishes or touches, those additional procedures may also take additional days to complete.
If you are planning the floor of your house or office to be concreted, there are a few things you need to consider. One is your budget. A very tight budget may prompt you to accomplish the concreting task on your own. However, the problem with DIY floor concreting is you might not be able to mix an exact proportion for the cement and water mixture and will lead to a poor result. Hiring professional concreters or concrete contractors may cost a little but you are guaranteed of a better end result. If you want to stick with DIY task completion, you will need to research first on the proper proportions of materials to mix.
In the field of construction alone, there is a large demand for pipe fitters. Pipe fitting jobs have multiplied exponentially with the advent of the construction boom and with the surge in demand came the need for hiring better trained pipe. This field focuses on the installation and repair of tubing and piping systems which convey liquid, gas, and to some extent solid materials. Adequate training is given to pipe which make them versatile in the different procedures in tubing and pipe installations for different applications.
The pipe fitters deals with a variety of pipe construction materials including clay, lead, steel, aluminum, copper, plastic, iron, and concrete. They deal with the various piping systems in terms of its set up, installation, repair and maintenance services. The water distribution systems, waste disposal systems, heating and cooling, and cooking systems are all included in the work of the pipe and the pipe jobs.
The pipe fitter also deals with working with either the low pressure or the high pressure piping systems in heating, cooling, manufacturing, and in electricity generation in structures and edifices. Part of the pipe fitting jobs, which is considered to be an important facet, is the reviewing and evaluation of building plans and blueprints.
Other functions of the pipes fitter include the configuration of pipes, its cutting and threading, bending, welding, and brazing. The pipe also configures the automatic control modules which would operate the different piping systems and installations. A good example of this is the automatic fire sprinkler system. Pipes Fitter Jobs also make use of a variety of installation techniques and materials which are compatible with the specific project requirements.
Adequate Training for Pipe Fitters
Specialty schools provide formal training for pipe. There are comprehensive programs for apprenticeship which provide extensive training and development for aspiring pipe. These programs usually require an educational investment period of 4 to 5 years, with a classroom training totaling 144 hours, inclusive of paid on-the-job training.
The classroom training contains modules in mathematics, physics, chemistry, safety, drafting and blueprint interpretation. Through the on-the-job training, apprentices become equipped with the necessary skills and training prior to getting pipes jobs. With their experience, these pipe learn of different approaches and methodologies in piping system installations. Different locations across the globe require licensure which includes hurdling written examinations.
The Future of the Pipe Fitter
Typical to many rising and popular professions, the pipe position is increasing in demand by as much as 10 percent per annum in a projected period from 2006 to 2016. This demand is proportionate to the burgeoning construction industry worldwide. It also gives emphasis to pipe with additional skills like welding and the demand also perks up with the wave of retiring pipes and tradesmen.
The pipes job has been a rewarding career. With current trends, the pipe earn in the range of $35,000 to $48,000 annually, with the upper 10 percent bracket of pipe grossing more than $55,000 per year.
As the title suggests, we live in a world which is now very commonly referred to as a "concrete jungle". This term is usually seen in a negative light, as it implies ruining our forests in the process of making everything concrete. But, development is a natural process and change is inevitable. If a balance between urbanisation and restoration of our forests is maintained, the term "concrete jungle" will surely not been seen in bad light.
Frankly, it is now nearly impossible to imagine our lives without walls, pavements, foundation, roads, dams, pipes, fences, as well as boats. The common factor between all these facilities provided to us is that they are made of concrete. Its usage in the world is second only to naturally occurring water. Thorough mixture of concrete is essential for its use, for which various mixers and equipments have been and are being manufactured usually within 100 km of the job site.
A concrete mixer is equipment designed to combine cement, sand or gravel, water and concrete. It consist of a revolving drum which does the mixing job (for a lesser volume portable mixers are used), making it easier for the construction workers to use the concrete long before it dries and hardens. In today's market, there are three kinds of concrete mixers widely available: twin-shaft mixers which are intensive mixers done in less time and are used for high strength concrete. For smaller batches used for pre-stressed concrete, vertical axis mixers are usually used, whereas, for large volumes of concrete (buildings, dams, and roads) drum mixers are utilized.
There are sometimes variations in the standard concrete transport, which is a concrete mixer trailer. These concrete mixer trucks are used to supply short loads of concrete mixtures usually in rental yards and building material location where the mixed supply is easily available to their regular customers.
Concrete pumps on the other hand are machines which are used to transfer the mixed concrete through pumping. They are of two kinds, the first one being the trailer-mounted boom concrete pump as it uses a remote controlled robotic arm (called boom) to place the concrete at the exact place where it is required. This kind of concrete pumping machine is used at large construction projects as they pump at an extremely high intensity and the robotic arm saves the usage of manual labourers.
The other type of a concrete pump is known as a truck mounted concrete pump. This kind of pump requires steel or flexible concrete placing hoses which is attached to the back of the truck. The said hoses are linked together and lead to wherever the concrete needs to be used. These pumps normally pump concrete at lower volumes than the trailer-mounted boom concrete pumps and are used for smaller volume concrete placing applications such as swimming pools, sidewalks, etc.
Being a $30 billion industry in the United States alone and regarding just the value of readymade concrete mixtures sold every day, the aforementioned machineries as well as concrete spare parts and other equipments are supplied by well-known companies. While buying such machinery, great care should be taken and research should be done about the credentials of the supplying company as there are many imposters in the market who will supply defective goods in order to make a quick profit in this thriving industry.
Hence, in all aspects of concrete batching, delivery, pumping and storage of concrete, a company which is recognised in the industry for its ability to provide the buyers with the most advanced equipment, as well as conceptual design consultancy for all commercial, industrial and infrastructure projects should be approached for any work regarding concrete.
It is a concrete jungle out there for sure, it is just our job to make sure the concrete used to create our jungle is of good quality and is used correctly, which can only be fulfilled with the help of the equipments and companies supplying such equipments mentioned above.
Nearly every construction project involves some form of cutting concrete or core boring. While cutting concrete may seem fairly simple and straightforward, in actual practice there are several considerations to keep in mind to have a safe and successful concrete cutting or boring project.
Fist, you must know that concrete dust is potentially damaging to the lung sinuses and eyes. Concrete dust also becomes corrosive and abrasive and may damage surrounding finish.
Dust control becomes an important consideration when cutting concrete either with a saw or a drill or core boring bit. The two most common dust control methods are wet cutting where the dust is collected in the cooling water and pneumatic devices that pull the dust away in an air stream.
When using a diamond cutting blade or other abrasive disk cutting device such as concrete saw, the water also serves to lubricate and cool the cutting tools. Consideration must me made to handle the spillage of cooling water on to the surface being cut. Drainage must be provided or a vacuum system like a wet vac can be used to control the spread of the cooling water.
When using electric powered tools, adequate grounding, insulation and appropriate ground fault protection must be provided. Standing in a puddle of water while operating and electric tool can be fatal if proper protections are not in place.
An extra precaution must be added when using core drilling machine. Many of these machines rely on suction to keep the bas in place during the drilling operation. The friction of the base suctioned against the floor provides the resistance to rotation while drilling.
Two competing factors come in to play during the lock down operation. The slicker the floor, the better the suction seal will be. However, there will be less resistance to rotation due to friction from the slick floor. Especially if the concrete is wet. Also, while a rough floor may provide more friction, the roughness will not allow a strong vacuum seal against the floor.
In either case the vacuum seal is not completely reliable and may fail during the drilling operation. The operator must be keenly aware of the possibility that the machine base my rotate violently without warning. The operator must keep his body out of the possible rotation path of the machine bas at all times during a core drilling operation.
A more reliable method of securing the machine is to set a simple concrete anchor through the base in addition to the vacuum seal. Most machines have a provision for such an anchor and the small hole required for the anchor is easily repaired in the concrete floor.
When making any kind of cut in concrete be it a straight line cut with a concrete saw or making a round hole with a core drill, you must also consider what is hidden in the concrete.
Not only will the concrete contain re bar and rocks that can snag the cutting tool, but often plumbing lines and electrical conduit are often buried in the concrete. And they will likely not be exactly where the drawings show them to be.
Before any concrete cutting operation take care to locate as precisely as possible any pipes or conduit that may be buried in the concrete.
A cutting blade will slice through a conduit with ease often shorting the wires together on the blade. However, care must be taken that the operator does not become the ground path instead of the conduit or other wires. If possible, de energize any power lines that may be in the vicinity of the cutting or drilling operation.
Concrete cutting requires sharp tools, quality equipment in good repair, a good supply of cooling water and a skilled operator. Operating concrete cutting equipment can be simple and safe, but the operator must be familiar with the potential hazards and know all the functions of the equipment he is operating.
Steel is an alloy and consists mostly of iron with carbon. Although carbon is most cost-effective alloy material, various other alloying elements are also used, including manganese, vanadium, chromium, and tungsten. These alloying elements harden the iron and varying amounts of these alloying elements determines qualities such as the ductility, hardness, and tensile strength of steel. Steel is the most common material in the world today and it is a major component in infrastructure and buildings as Steel Pipes and Steel Tubes, tools made from Steel, in ships, machines, automobiles, and appliances.
A pipe in general terms is a hollow cylinder or tube and is used to carry or convey materials but is also used as a component in structures. The terms tube and are interchangeable and a pipe is generally referred by its internal diameter, while a tube is generally defined by its external diameter. Steel Pipes and Steel Tubes have many uses and are used for Domestic Water Systems for carrying water to Homes and offices, as part of indoor plumbing. Huge and extensive steel pipelines are also used for transporting gas and water to cities and facilities far away from the source. Some pipelines are also used to transport other liquids and chemicals to and from facilities, internally and externally. Pipelines are also used to transport sewage, slurry, and even beer, but the most important uses for Steel pipes are to transport water for domestic use, oil and natural gas.
Besides transporting materials, pipes are also used as scaffolding to support people and materials in construction and repair of office buildings, homes, and other structures. Steel Pipes and Steel Tubes are also used as components in mechanical systems as Rollers in conveyor belts, Compactors, as casing in constructions for concrete pilings, Pressure manufacturing processes, High temperature manufacturing processes, Casings for Oil wells, Oil refining equipment, etc. Pipes and tubes are available in different diameters, sizes, tensile strength, lengths, etc. Depending on the use, pipes and tubes can also be custom manufactured, as they are for the oil and gas industry. For domestic and industrial use, pipes and tubes are sold through distributors and traders.
Pipes and tubes for general use in industry and homes can be bought directly from pipe distributors and traders who stock different sizes and diameters of pipes. Steel pipes have been manufactured for over 150 years and pipe sizes used today in galvanized and PVC pipes were designed for steel pipes years ago. The numbering system - Sch 40, 80, 160 was set a long time ago and seems a bit odd, as Sch 40 is thicker than Sch 1120, but with the same outer diameter. While these pipe sizes have been based on the old sizes, there are other pipes like the gold flow cpvc size for heated water that uses sizes, internal and external, based on the old copper size standards. There are so many uses of pipes and tubes and they are manufactured in so many sizes, diameters, and qualities that it has become an indispensable part of daily life.
What is it that makes High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) pipes such a craze among pipe manufacturers? Answer to that question is this material increases the longevity of the pipes. It protects them from corrosion and makes them absolutely immune to aging. That is the reason the history of the usage of these HDPE pipes is 49 years old.
These pipes were first used in various countries in all over Europe. However, the kind of HDPE that is used these days is far more sophisticated and has better resistance against corrosion. It is seen that a pipe that was buried since 1982 was protected from aging thanks to what some industry experts call second generation HDPE.
The PEX pipes that have this kind of polyethylene not only last longer than ordinary metal pipes but preserve all kinds of antioxidants has made these pipes so unique. They have a great resistance towards water pressure.
This is the reason that most of the house owners are now a days going for plastic pipes. Apart from their practical purpose these pipes also have an economical side as well. These pipes are not at all expensive and thus will help you save some money.
These HDPE pipes are also very easy to install. You will not have to have a Herculean strength to install them. They are very lightweight, which makes it easier also to carry them. These qualities definitely make these pipes ideal for homes as well as business houses. Polyethylene pipes are better from pipes that are made of steel or concrete. It can be said that this kind of pipes have taken construction to a new level and they are the latest trends of the day.
In 2008 when the pipe industry saw a decline of about 15 percent in the United Sates the sales of HDPE pipes also came down but they stayed ahead in comparison to that of PVC pipes. This shows the kind of favorable image this kind of pipes have. Moreover, according to a survey it is very much expected that the market of these HDPE pipes will see an increase in demand by at least 10 percent. The corrugated HDPE pipe market too is expected to rise by 15 percent.
Considering all these scenarios the suppliers and manufacturers of HDPE pipes have enough reason to even in this tough financial time. This is a technology that really has a very bright
A concrete batch plant is a mixing plant where sand, gravel, cement, water, and other materials are turned into concrete. The concrete produced in concrete batch plants is used for the foundations of buildings, paving material for roads and parking lots, pipes used for drainage and plumbing and precast concrete components.
In the past, concrete batch plants posed environmental issues in that they produced large amounts of dust and other particles that contributed to air pollution as well as dirty runoff water. Today, however concrete batch plants are designed to reuse wastewater and decrease the amount of pollution emitted.
Concrete batch plants are used by the construction industry and are required to produce high volumes of concrete and to be portable or stationary as required for a particular construction site. There are various models of concrete batch plants available on the market designed to suit the particular needs of the construction industry. Self-loading batching plants are ideal for use at pre-cast yards and building sites. They are particularly useful for sites where continual concrete production is required 24 hours per day. The self-loading batch plant is fitted with a radial scraper that loads all the mineral materials, used in making concrete, into a weigh hopper. This is achieved via a programmable computer. The batch plant then discharges the mixture from the weigh hopper into either a pan mixer; drum mixer or dry belt conveyor. The options available for self-loading batching plants are that they can be supplied with or without cement silos or bag splitters, they can be electrically powered or diesel driven, computer weighing systems with a capacity of up to 36 different programmable settings, manual, semi-automatic or fully automatic control panels, water systems and the option of ad-mixture plants.
There are different types of self-loading concrete batching plants such as:
- The Robomix, which is fitted with a drum mixer and is ideal for use on the job site as they are able to discharge concrete into dumpers.
- The Robomescolatore is fitted with a Pan Mixer and is ideally suited to use in precast yards. They discharge concrete via a single hydraulically operated hatch that can be adjusted to suit most heights.
- The Hydromix dry batching plants, which are fitted with conveyor belt discharge systems, are ideally suited for use with conventional truck mixers.
- Bin-Fed batching plants are transportable, fully automated, have their own hydraulic off-loading legs and are capable of producing outputs of up to 40m3 per hour. These batch plants can be custom made to suit construction industry specifications, with accessories added such as: ad-mixture plants, low-level or upright cement silos, aggregate feeders and water chillers.
Concrete batch plants should be placed close to a construction site, so fewer transit concrete mixer trucks are used thus saving the industry fuel costs, labour and equipment costs.
Polybutylene piping was used extensively in home construction during the period between 1975 and 1995, due largely to its low cost and ease of installation. Polybutylene piping can cause several problems, primarily due to the fact that it can react with water and become brittle, flaking off and causing the pipes to fail without warning. Because they can fail, it is important to know if you have this type of piping, and here we'll go over a few ways to recognize polybutylene piping in your home.
Obviously, the best way to recognize polybutylene is to have a professional plumber or home inspector take a look. You may be able to tell if your home has this type of piping by looking on your own, but it is hard to recognize if it is damaged simply by looking if you are not experienced. There are, however, a few things you can look for in order to tell if you have this type of piping. Once you have confirmed it, you can have a professional check for any potential damage and help you figure out a solution.
Polybutylene underground water main pipes tend to be blue in color, but can also be gray or black. Black poly should not be confused with polybutylene. The pipes tend to be half an inch to an inch in diameter, and can be seen entering the home through the basement floor or wall, through a concrete slab, or even through a crawlspace. Generally, it will come through the home near the water heater, which is a good place to start looking. There are some cases where copper piping is used near the home, and polybutylene piping is used near the water meter, so it is important to check both ends.
Polybutylene piping can also be used inside the home, and is most easily found near the water heater. It can also be found running along the ceiling in uncompleted basements, and coming out of the walls to provide water to sinks and toilets. Some areas use copper stub outs, so if you see copper near the fixture it does not mean that polybutylene piping is not used for the rest of the piping. If you do find this type of piping, it is generally a good idea to replace it, but this must generally be done with the aid of a professional plumber, especially if it is damaged.
Concrete is one the most broadly used construction materials in almost all countries around the world. This construction material composed of cement and other materials has allowed for the formation of stronger and more durable structures such as houses, buildings, roads and bridges among others. Furthermore, its tremendous popularity as a fundamental construction material is apparent and can be seen in almost everything that surrounds us. It is used extensively in constructing pavements, pipe, fences, walls, sound barriers, parking lots, bridges, overpasses, home and building foundations and much more.
There are several different types of concrete with each having unique characteristics and materials used, including reinforced and pre-stressed concrete. However, although there are many types to choose from, nothing is easier to use than precast concrete. Using it in constructing barriers can offer more benefits than any other type of standard concrete.
Precast concrete is made by casting concrete into in an existing mold which is then allowed to form and harden, after which it is removed and shipped to the construction site or home and then erected in place. This type of concrete can be found in pretty much any part of a home or building including stairways. This type of concrete is also ideal for covering a building, either in full or in part, as free standing fences and walls for making the landscape look nice, for soundproofing and for erecting security walls or barriers.
Using this type of forms in constructing barriers is more economical, practical, and can save a lot of money. What makes this type of concrete outstanding, especially for putting up barriers, is that it looks aesthetically-appealing, not like regular cement. This type of concrete can be stained and manipulated during the formation process to make barriers look more like a naturally occurring rock or stone. Furthermore, some concrete barriers made from this type of concrete are also claimed to be resistant against graffiti and vandalism marks.
Aside from being aesthetically pleasing, concrete barriers made from precast concrete can last for years and can hold up against the wear and tear of the changing weather or climatic conditions. One of the advantages of using this type of concrete is that it is made from highly-engineered and quality materials. This type of concrete can guarantee more strength and durability for the barriers, which means it will take years for them to wear down and be replaced with new ones. The natural characteristics of this kind of concrete make it possible to save a lot of money.
By using this type of concrete for barriers, the construction costs can be lessened and it is more practical to use as compared to pouring concrete into the mold on site. In addition, time can be saved from constructing the barriers. Since they are already molded and dried, these barriers can be immediately put and erected onto their proper places.
Are you interested in a concrete manhole project? Precast concrete manholes are a relatively simple idea. Manholes, which are the top opening to a vault (usually used for underground work), must be made of very strong material. A manhole is used to house an access point, and is often involved in the construction of underground sewer systems, telephone systems and electrical systems. The underground vault is protected by the manhole cover. This cover protects workers against outside elements as well as any intruders.
Manhole systems can be made from metal, though concrete is a popular alternative. Precast concrete manholes are a European trend that is making its way to mainstream U.S. construction. Precast manholes should be very sturdy and durable. Most manhole covers and openings are reinforced to withstand constant pressure such as air traffic or highway traffic. They can also accommodate virtually any type of pipe.
Precast concrete manholes are often used in the construction of modern sewer systems. This type of system is able to provide superior watertight performance, especially when compared to steel or other materials. The manhole is typically installed about 500 feet beneath the ground level. Lateral forces around the surface react equally causing pure compression; concrete materials are thus ideal.
Concrete is the more advantageous investment than steel. Steel has the tendency to soften and melt with exposure to high temperatures. Concrete is also seen as the safer choice, especially when safety is a key issue. Concrete systems are reinforced and offer greater resistance to explosion of extreme impact. Furthermore, precast concrete manholes do not require any fireproofing treatments. They withstand natural and manmade disasters very well. Concrete can withstand winds of over 200 miles per hour!
Another important factor to consider is that precast concrete manholes are usually less expensive options than steel. While prices of most construction materials have spiked, concrete materials have remained economically stable. Meanwhile, the price of steel has inflated greatly. Concrete is also a more flexible material than steel, since it can take practically any shape. Concrete can take the form of anything.
Greater durability, cost efficiency and flexibility-all good reasons why you should choose concrete in construction. If you are involved in the creation of a sewer system or another utility project in your city or town, consider choosing precast concrete manholes. Look for a company that offers the highest quality materials at an affordable and market appropriate price.
A Concrete core drill is a specialized tool designed for drilling through various thicknesses of concrete with a wide range of concrete core bits. Unlike drilling through wood, sheet rock or plastic, concrete core drilling is a difficult and timely procedure for the typical do-it-yourself homeowner. Boring small concrete holes are typically easier and safer with sharp concrete bits than drilling larger diameter concrete holes (concrete drill bits can be as large as 72 inches-even larger). Always utilize caution with and hand-held core drills or core rigs.
There are two types of concrete drills: hand-held and core rigs. A Hand held concrete drill is a mobile tool utilized for smaller holes and generally take smaller diameter core bits. These types of tools are predominantly powered by electricity and cost much less than stand mounted core rigs. Handheld core drills are perfect for boring holes to make passages for small utilities-wires, pipes and cable.
Stand mounted concrete core rigs are utilized when large amounts of concrete are needed to be removed. Core rigs are able to take a much broader width of core bits because they are more stable and provide the user with a greater measure of security. The stand mounted concrete drill is fastened to the surface you are going to drill by bolts, making the drill safe and secure and easy to use. This also allows the drill to be used on vertical or horizontal surfaces; a major benefit for running larger utility lines. Unlike concrete handheld drills-which run primarily on electricity, concrete core rigs come with electric, gas and air power supplies.
Concrete bits act just like regular wood hole saws and are mounted on shafts of varying length to accommodate a wide range of concrete depths. Extenders are used to reach even greater depths. Unlike wood hole saws, the teeth of a core bit are diamond and able to penetrate concrete easily. Depending on the job, core bits have a variable life expectancy, but should always be kept sharp and not used past their time. The danger to the user grows exponentially the duller the bits.
There are many professional companies that offer their services to bore concrete holes for any purpose. If you choose to do the job yourself, please research the topic well and know your tools. Saving money as a do-it-yourself homeowner is always off-set by a trip to the hospital. Be safe.
When it comes to building materials, concrete is one of God's gifts to mankind! There's simply no better way to explain it. The components which make up concrete are both naturally plentiful - making it economic to produce - and environmentally friendly, due to it not having any byproducts. And did you know concrete can be recycled as well? - Another 10 points in the eco-friendliness department.
About 7 and a half cubic kilometers of concrete are produced every year! - More than a cubic meter of concrete for every man, woman, child, dog, and cat on this planet! Concrete is used to make a wide variety of structures including roads, piping, foundations, bridges, parking lots, walls, and at least 50% of all our infrastructures! Being as user-friendly as it is, with all its qualities, I'm not surprised.
Modern concrete is made out of a mixture of Portland cement, aggregate, and water. What kind of aggregate you add depends on what you will use the finished product for. Mortar for example, is just sand and Portland cement, whereas concrete will have coarser aggregate as well as sand. Despite concrete's amazing compressive strength, it has significantly weaker tensile strength, and needs to therefore be reinforced by a material with stronger tensile properties before it can be reliable for most building projects.
Reinforced Concrete
The most common reinforcing material is steel "rebars", short for reinforcement bars. Other methods and materials such as grids, plates or fibers are known to be used to lesser degrees, but rebar is the most common. There is also what is known as pre-stressed concrete, which is the same as normal reinforced concrete except that the rebar on the tensile face is placed in tension prior to concrete pour, and released after the concrete is cured.
On a typical concrete beam, there is an "outer face" and an "inner face". When this beam undergoes flexure, a curvature will form. The outer or tensile face will experience tensile stress and the inner or compressive face, compressive stress. Installing pre-stressed rebar on the outer face of the beam creates a built-in compressive force on this outer face. This means that when loads are applied, the built-in compression will experience a reduction, but will not translate into a tensile force - until the load overcomes the compression in the rebar.
Drawbacks to Concrete
With all its astounding qualities, you might be wondering where the drawbacks are. Well, there aren't all that many, but there are a few. All concrete will eventually form cracks. Sorry, but it's true. No matter how well you followed the rules, you just can't get away from this one. This is another major reason for reinforcement. Cracks are inevitable, but the reinforcement will hold it together and keep it from getting worse.
Due to concrete's extremely low coefficient of thermal expansion, repeated freeze/thaw cycles are one of the major contributors to concrete cracking. Preventative measures such as the adding of expansion joints to absorb the movement from these cycles aid tremendously in preserving the life of your concrete.
If you have ever had to have your sewer lines or indoor plumbing lines repaired, or perhaps you have heard the stories told by others, then you know how arduous a process it can be. So, if you find yourself in need of new water lines or pipes, then chances are, you are not looking forward to the experience. But what if there were an alternative to the traditional sewer and water lines? Rather having your lawn or driveway dug up and making the yard look unsightly and causing a long list of inconveniences for your household, now you can opt for trenchless pipe replacement.
Simply put, trenchless pipe replacement (sometimes called pipe rehabilitation, pipe breaking, trenchless technology or no dig) is when underground pipe-work is replaced without digging long, ugly trenches that disrupt lawns, sidewalks, driveways and other features of your property. In fact, when trenchless pipe replacement is used there is 90% less damage done to the grounds or concrete work. Of course, this is not the only reason, albeit a good one, that many people are opting for trenchless pipes rather than the traditional. Here are some of the other advantages of trenchless pipe replacement.
Pipe rehabilitation can save on your water, electrical and gas lines because it does not need to be turned off or re-installed due to digging a new drain line.
If in the future, you have any problems with your sewer/water lines, a trenchless system works more effectively with a sewer camera inspection making it easy to determine where the problem is.
The no dig technology means that water flows better and the plumbing system is longer lasting than "traditional" pipelines.
Trenchless pipe replacement is cheaper than sewer line replacement because it is not necessary to dig up the sewer lines and destroy the existing landscape and cement work. As a result, you will not have the added expense of repairing your yard after the job is complete.
Trenchless pipe replacement can be done anywhere-whether you live in the mountains, the city or at the beach, no region is off limits for pipe rehabilitation.
Any future repairs are easily made via the 2 small access points at either end of the pipeline, meaning that it is not necessary to uncover the entire system.
Like anything else in life, if there are advantages to something, there are usually disadvantages as well. Trenchless pipe replacement is no different. Here are the disadvantages of trenchless pipe replacement:
In order to maintain that any additional lines-electrical, gas, etc... are not damaged, it may be necessary for the workers to do some hand digging in the yard to establish where these lines are located.
The labor cost can be higher as the equipment used is expensive.
Occasionally, it may be necessary to remove some of the landscaping, but only if the root system of the plants it will cause future problems.
Precast concrete is the term used for concrete construction products that are made in molds under controlled conditions and then shipped to construction sites. This technique, first utilized in 1905, creates concrete products that are much better in quality and uniformity than standard concrete components that are poured and cured on-site. Because prefabricated concrete products are produced in managed environments, there is greater management over quality and workmanship than can typically be found in outdoor concrete construction settings. By producing the products in precast plants, the concrete is afforded the opportunity to cure to exact specifications and the molds can be very easily reused.
There are many advantages to employing precast concrete products in a construction project. These can include strength, durability, fire resistance, chemical resistance, aesthetics, low maintenance, safety and ease of installation. Because precast processing plants specialise in concrete, they can offer a variety of shapes, sizes, colors and finished that can not be found in an on-site concrete construction process. Because the molds used to create precast products can be reused many times, there is a reduction in overall construction costs. On top of that, because most prefabricated products are developed and manufactured for simple connection, they save on labor expenses as they can be lifted and installed into place in a short period of time.
Precast concrete products are now generally used worldwide for many different applications. Municipalities use concrete products for waste water disposal and treatment and storm water drainage. Thousands of transportation structures like terminal buildings and platform risers have been erected worldwide using precast concrete construction products for many years. Other examples include feed and water troughs for animals, barriers for use in transportation construction zones, building walls, landscape retaining barriers, storm cellars, pump stations, cemetery vaults, communication vaults and containers for the storage of hazardous materials; just to name a few.
New home building is now making more use of prefabricated concrete walls because they provide greater durability and lower manpower costs. Concrete walls can last longer than other types of home construction materials due to greater resistance to rot, insect damage and high winds. The walls can be of a single or double thickness which are made to exact specifications so they can be effortlessly installed. Double thickness walls are also called sandwich walls when they are produced from two layers of concrete with a layer of insulation sandwiched in between. Since they are molded to precise specifications, concrete walls can also be made with door, window and pipe access openings already in place.There is predicted to be a big increase in the use of precast concrete globally for the long term. Population increases and the depletion of other natural resources usually utilised in construction, particularly in developing nations, will dictate an increased use of precast concrete building procedures.
If you are having problems with your house or building pipes, such as leaky pipes, pipe corrosion or discolored water, you may be wondering if you need a complete repipe. Was your home or building built prior to 1970? Homes or buildings built on or before the 1970's are most likely made up of galvanized piping.
Galvanized pipes are iron pipes coated with zinc for weather protection. As these pipes age, the zinc erodes, exposing the raw iron into the water causing the pipes to eventually begin to rust. Galvanized pipes rust from the inside out and there is really no way to tell what kind of shape your plumbing is in from the outside.
The usual life span for a galvanized pipe system is about thirty years. There are no effective methods to easily get rid of rust accumulation or reverse the scaling process with galvanized pipe systems.
As the rust and deterioration factors worsen, you may have any of the following:
reduced water pressure and flow
moist/damp spots in your drywall,concrete floors, or wooden structure
pipe corrosion
discolored or rusty water (brown water)
bad water: foul-smelling and unfit to drink
leaky pipes (can result in mold growth in your walls, attic,under slab)
If your house or building is experiencing low water pressure, mineral scaling or corroding pipes, then you will inevitably need to repipe your entire plumbing system with copper pipes.
Copper repiping is a process of refitting all of the existing hot and cold water pipes in a house or building. After you replace your old galvanized pipes with copper, you will immediately experience the following:
Increased Water Pressure and Volume
Cleaner, Rust-free, Better Tasting Water
Eliminate plumbing repair costs related to rusting, corroding pipes (see above)
Added value to your home
Following the work most people become amazed to see the improved convenience of simultaneous use of water around the house. Many can find that you can wash dishes, run a load of laundry, shower, water the lawn and so on, all at the same time due to the increased water pressure.
If you replace those old problematic galvanized pipes with new copper pipes, you will experience lifetime benefits because your pipes will no longer rust or corrode.
Plumbing has come a long way in the last 2,000 years. Yes, Ancient Romans are famous for their aqueducts, surely one of mankind's greatest inventions, but what we must also remember is that those same Romans were the first civilization to transport water with the use of lead, a toxin. Now, as it turns out, the Romans lucked out by having high calcium content in their drinking water, which coated their pipes and kept them safe (the same could not be said about their lead cookware, unfortunately).
Since that time, humans have gone through many different materials to convey their water. Wood was used in Britain and Early America, for example. Concrete has been used, a material that Romans would have approved of. In modern America, copper has long been the choice, but with the ever-rising cost of copper, that may be finally changing.
Enter stainless steel, an American classic.
More and more, homeowners, businesses, and contractors alike are heading to steel pipe supply companies for their water conveyance needs. Surprisingly, they cite cost, among many other things, as one of their main reasons for changing. Stainless steel pipe prices may not be the same as copper, but as any contractor will tell you, many factors go into the final cost of a product.
First off, steel pipe is lighter than copper, so transporting it is cheaper. The initial savings here may be minimal, but for contractors who make repeated trips to steel pipe supply companies, this means big savings. Contractors will also be quick to note that stainless steel pipe is less likely to be stolen by worksite thieves, who have become a real nuisance to anyone installing copper in the last decade or so.
Home and business owners will also be happy to know that stainless steel pipe prices also lessen over the long term, for many reasons. Stainless steel pipe requires no coating, yet it resists both internal and external corrosion, meaning that it will last longer and require fewer repairs and replacements.
Stainless steel's sturdiness also means that it can be laid over longer stretches than copper, a benefit of particular interest to owners of larger buildings. Longer pipes mean fewer connections, and fewer connections mean less leaking and less overall maintenance.
Stainless steel also has a lower coefficient of friction, meaning it yields higher water pressure at the point of use and is safer for drinking, with any leaching chemicals well below recommended limits.
And if these cost-reducing and health factors aren't enough, business and home owners will be happy to know that stainless steel is completely recyclable material. After its use, or if a piece needs to be replaced, the old pipe may be sold to recoup some of its original cost.
Whether stainless steel pipes will begin flooding the market in the years to come is yet to be seen. However, one thing is certain: for copper, the pressure is on.
St. Louis Pipe & Supply is who you want to contact for OCTG and industrial steel supply needs. They have competitive stainless steel pipe prices and a large grades selection including chrome, low temp, nickle alloys, and carbon pipe. St. Louis Pipe & Supply also handles international logistics and will meet or exceed ASTM, ASME, ANSI and/or API standards, per your required specifications. Contact St.Louis Pipe & Supply today!
No one ever thinks about the existing plumbing when they move into a home. If it is working, why worry about it? What you may not realize is that while the rest of your home ages, so do the pipes, and that there may be a host of potential problems cropping up in the future that would be worth avoiding now, simply by replacing copper and galvanized steel pipes now. We will explain what plumbing problems can be caused by these pipes, and how you could benefit by doing the necessary replacements now.
Types of Plumbing Lines
Most homes are constructed with two types of plumbing lines in them. The first type of line, drain lines are the ones most likely to cause problems in the future. The second type, water lines are usually not as problematic, but will have their own issues down the road. When you look at replacing copper and galvanized steel pipes, it is a good idea to understand the reasoning behind it. Most homes today have copper plumbing being used for the house water lines, primarily because they do not corrode as rapidly as iron, steel, or galvanized steel pipes.
Unfortunately, older homes will have been constructed with iron or galvanized pipes, and should be replaced with copper piping as soon as possible. The first sign that usually crops up is that the drains begin to clog easily, and are not easy to clear when they do. This is because iron and steel corrode easily, and will build up mineral residue inside them as they break down. You will know that the water pipes have been affected when you begin to lose pressure, and the water tastes odd.
The Ravages of Age
For some, even the constant clogging and loss of water pressure is not enough incentive to even begin thinking about having copper repiping done. It may seem to be an unnecessary expense, or along the lines of "if it isn't broke, why fix it?" thinking, something that most people will blame on outside agencies rather than their own plumbing first. There are times that the source of water to the home may experience low pressure, usually during drought conditions, but such effects are very temporary, and never constant.
Over time, if left alone, the signs of aging iron and galvanized pipes will steadily grow worse. Soon, you will begin to find moist or damp spots within the structure of your home, on concrete floors, in the drywall, and especially within any wooden walls or floors. The water coming out of the pipes will continue to darken, becoming discolored as the minerals build up and the metal continues to rust. The end result of this will be foul smelling water that no one wants to drink, cook with or bathe in. Finally, the corrosion will build to a point where pipes will begin to leak, break and burst. The cost of repiping just got elevated higher than it would have been previously.
The Easy Solution
Refitting the corroded piping with copper is the easiest solution, and will restore your home's plumbing quickly into functioning as it should be. Copper does not rust or corrode as easily as iron or steel, and any qualified plumbing contractor will be able to tell you how much you will need to correct any current issues, and how much it will cost to do so. Most iron piping only has a lifespan of thirty years, from installation, and steel only around forty years. Copper has a far longer lifespan, and will last nearly forever, barring accidents.
Immediate benefits of replacing copper and galvanized steel piping will be evident in the restoration of proper water pressure, better tasting water, and less clogs popping up in the drainage pipes. Over time, you will also see a reduction in your monthly water costs, as you will see no more leaking pipes, backed up drains or seepage under the foundation of the home. Want to save money on water? Replace as much of your plumbing as you can with copper piping.
Hume Pipe, Main Hole Cover, Concrete Pipe, Spun Pipe
As the galvanized pipe ages, it can burst or clog for a variety of reasons and lets hope you can access the plumbing problem to repair the line in question or replace it. In some older homes you can access the plumbing by crawling under the house (raised foundation) to get to the problem. In other homes that have a concrete slab, as the foundation, you may have to cut into the concrete to access these problems, or in certain cases you can re-route the plumbing up through the walls and into the attic and come back down to the area of repair, or installation.
Older track homes prior to the 1970's were built with this kind of piping unless it was specified to use a different material.
Copper piping has become a standard in most home building these days, with a few other materials like polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or cross-linked polyethylene (PEX). Working with copper entails cutting the runs and turns to size and sweating the connections together with a nap gas torch kit, flux and solder. The pvc type material mentioned, requires gluing the fittings together, while the pex material uses compression fittings to connect the fittings.
Some of the materials mentioned come in different thickness and /or ratings. The thicker or higher rating of the material, the more the cost. So, you have to ask yourself if the property is worth the extra expense. If this your own property and you have no intention of moving any time soon, by all means get the better of the materials.
If you are handy with tools and have any knowledge of plumbing, you more than likely can do some or all of any repairs and installs you desire. It does take some time to plan out these projects, learn about the differences of old and new products and know what tooling is necessary.
So, lets recap...
Know the age of the home and the realization that galvanized pipes will fail over time and repairs or replacements will be needed
Having the understanding of different materials and how time affects them will make your decision to upgrade go easier for any repairs or new installs
Knowing where to access areas to do any work helps considerably
Having the correct tools and the knowledge of how to use them will go a long way during the repair process
Thanks for reading my articles.
I am a avid repair person, with a wide range of knowledge in building and maintaining residential and commercial properties. I've starting writing to get you some knowledge of how to approach home repair issues, so you may also maintain and repair your own property.
Concrete storm drain contractors are hired whenever construction projects involve the installation of drainage systems. Without doubt, storm drains are one of the most essential engineering marvels of the modern world. They are used to carry away rain water to avert flooding in streets and surrounding properties.
Most often, concrete storm drain contractors perform work associated with municipal jobs. Drainage systems are positioned throughout communities in residential neighborhoods, shopping centers, industrial parks, and along roads and highways.
The role of public systems is to manage water that accumulates during heavy rainfall or snow melt. Developing plans and installing pipeline for municipal projects is an extensive process that involves numerous people.
Most people are familiar with street gutters which are placed alongside streets and sidewalks. This equipment provides an opening for storm water to enter the system. Once water passes through gutters it enters a catch basin and passes through a series of underground pipes until reaching a point of release.
Release points are generally large bodies of water such as oceans, rivers, or lakes. However, water is sometimes transported to manmade retention ponds where it is stored until it can be released or taken to another location.
Another option for storage is underground water tanks which can hold up to 40,000 gallons. Installing underground tanks necessitates meticulous planning to ensure the ground is shored up and tanks are leak-free.
If system components are incorrectly installed or have mechanical breakdowns, the system will not be able to handle storm surge. Because of the severe consequences that can happen if systems fail, equipment must be serviced on a regular basis. This includes flushing systems, clearing debris from catch basins, and inspecting all components.
One of the greatest challenges of drainage systems is controlling the level of pollutants. Since storm drains need to quickly eliminate water it is nearly impossible to include filtration systems. Doing so would bog down the system and cause more harm than good.
Public systems do make use of oil and water separation devices to minimize the amount of synthetic oil discharged into waterways. Petroleum products wreak havoc on aquatic life and can wipe out entire eco systems.
Furthermore, engineers are constantly testing filtration systems that can be used in public drainage systems. A few that are currently in use are storm water chambers, geomembrane liners, fabric filters, and fossil filters. Each of these has proven to be effective in lessening the amount of debris that passes through systems.
Design engineers perform multiple calculations to determine which pipe dimensions are best suited for the project. The rate that water can flow through pipes is generally regulated by individual municipalities. If rates surpass permissible levels, engineers must include plans for retention ponds or underground storage tanks.
Engineers work with subsurface utility engineering (SUE) firms to obtain underground images and data about the location. SUE makes use of non-invasive technology to provide 3D maps.
This information reveals if there are any existing pipelines or utilities that could interfere with installation of drainage systems. Since its inception, SUE has greatly reduced workplace accidents by identifying potential hazards before contractors commence with excavation.
There is no doubt that installing public drainage systems is a complex task that needs to be performed by skilled storm drain contractors. Always take time to investigate pipeline companies and make certain they possess the experience needed for the job.
People rarely notice the nondescript concrete storm drain structure positioned along streets and highways. While they aren't something that stands out they are needed to get rid of excess storm water. Otherwise, roads would flood each time it rains.
Most of the components of concrete storm drain structures are installed below the surface or hidden by embankments. For the most part, the only parts people see are street gutters and catch basins.
Regions that don't have drainage systems can be seriously affected by flooding. These systems provide an outlet to rain water and reduce incidences of rapidly rising water.
Storm drains are able to draw water into pipeline by taking advantage of gravitational forces. Roadways, parking lots, and other ground surfaces are constructed at a slight degree of tilt so water naturally flows downhill and into the system.
Creating construction plans and installing public systems is not an easy process. Countless considerations must be given to every aspect of the project. Engineers evaluate data pertaining to present and future needs of the community to ensure the system can withstand population growth.
Data is provided for multiple situations, such as how many people will live in the area over the next several decades or the expected level of growth for commercial or retail sectors.
Anytime regions experience population growth, vacant land is turned into paved surfaces such as streets and parking lots. Given that storm water can't pass through solid surfaces it moves along until arriving at storm drains or a body of water. Rain water is like a magnet and picks up many things along the way including any toxic chemicals or debris.
Storm water is often filled with a variety of environmental contaminants. Most often, water is left untreated and discharged into whatever large body of water is close by. This can be ponds, lakes, rivers, and oceans.
Everyone knows environmental toxins are harmful to waterways, as well as anything that depends on the water supply for survival. Pollution can dampen the development and overall health of marine life, vegetation, and entire eco systems, which in turn creates health risks for human beings.
There are multiple steps to design and install municipal storm water drainage systems. Project owners have to partner with design engineers, subsurface utility engineering companies, and pipeline contractors, along with local bureaucrats. Public works projects generally take many months from start to finish.
Drainage systems consist of numerous components such as concrete catch basins, drop inlets, chambers, swales, manholes, water pipes, and outlet pipes. Collectively, these elements create a self-sufficient system that carries away storm water and helps circumvent flooding in communities, roads, and interstate systems.
Lessening the level of accumulative rainfall on public highways is extremely important. Wet asphalt and flooded streets can create havoc for motorists. Inability to stop, hydroplaning, and car crashes are common occurrences during rain and snow storms. Drainage systems help to quickly eliminate water to lessen incidence of accidents.
Storm drain construction is a complex task that necessitates contractors to undergo special training and become knowledgeable about EPA regulations. Devastating consequences can occur if systems are improperly installed. Therefore, it is always advisable to work with a reputable contractor experienced in the particular type of construction project.
Concrete foundation repair can come about due to the slabs settling and moving as a result of what is below them. Clay and soil have to be carefully prepared before any building work can be undertaken upon the surface. So if this work was carried out badly, or not enough research was undertaken before building, the concrete can only fail.
Most ground foundations move slightly with time. They may be clay, or filled in with soil, and the builder will take this into account, when designing the structure, which is going to stand on it.
But even the best planned projects run into trouble, and concrete foundations can move or sink. Underpinning is the commonest method provided by engineering firms when it comes to repairing a foundation with problems.
At first this can be a traumatic time for anyone facing the problem of repairing a building with a failing foundation. As it strike at the heart of why the building was put there in the first place, and many contractors could be facing ruin.
The good news is, that modern technology has come so far, the solutions are not impossible.
The two commonest methods of tackling this problem, are Slabjacking and Piering.
Slabjacking is the process of pumping grout beneath the beam or slab, to produce a lifting force, restoring the desired levelling. This is often used when the concrete slab has simply sunk into the earth. But can be used, when engineers find a structure to be uneven. One of the commonest uses can be found in stabalizing, when cracks start to appear in a pavement or driveway.
Filling with pressure grout is one of the best methods of stabalizing a structure, when a void has been found beneath the site. These voids often occur due to water running beneath the surface. So cement slurry can be pumped in to fill the gap and divert away any unwanted water.
Piering is the method of driving steel pipe pilings into the ground to counter-act the results of a failing structure. A hydraulic ram will drive a section of Galvanised or epoxy-coated steel pipe into the soil. They can also be screwed into the ground with Helical Piers via a torque motor.
Concrete sidewalks can vary in shapes, colors and be formed into any shape you can imagine. Before starting on this project, look around at other homes and businesses to see what can be done but don't be limited by what you see. Use your imagination. Colored concrete is available today from most Redi-mix suppliers and concrete color stains are also another way to obtain a beautiful finished product. There are "cast-on" products out there that can provide a non-slip surface, a super hard surface and even anti-spalling compounds that help keep the sidewalk from chipping due to the use of winter salt. Most redi-mix concrete dries in some shade of beige color depending on the color if the sand and Portland cement used. Ask your supplier where he has poured his product and go look at it. This will give you an idea of what the "aged" product will look like later. Once you have decided what color concrete you are going to use, decide what strength concrete you need. I recommend the use of 3000# strength concrete for all sidewalks except very heavy use or vehicle traffic. If vehicles will be crossing the sidewalk, use 4000# or 5000#. It will cost a few dollars more a yard, but will last a great deal longer.
TOOLS REQUIRED-
Hammer, sledge, string line, and level with tripod. 4' hand level, pointed and flat shovels, wood 2x4 for screeding (leveling) of the concrete, bolt cutters, safety glasses, work gloves, fine broom and two edger's called sidewalk edger's and v-groove styles. A metal sidewalk edge finishing tool, a V-groove tool for center joints and a steel trowel are a must. Most masons prefer to use a magnesium float to put the initial finish on their walks prior to applying the final broom finish.
MATERIALS REQUIRED-
Concrete is ordered by the cubic yard. It is quite simple to figure out how many yards you need for your project using the following formula: Length x Width x Height (thickness) divided by 27 =? Cubic yards. A typical example: Your sidewalk is 3' wide, 3-0 feet long by 4" thick. Using the formula above: 3' x 30'x.33 /27=1.1 cubic yards. You cannot order.1 cubic yards. So it is either 1 or 1.5 yards. All Redi-mix companies charge what they call a short load charge for anything under 6 yards. So there are choices here to be made. Is there anything else that needs concrete? Make the walk a little wider? Add a patio area? Ask the Redi-mix company what the charge is for 1.5 or 2 yards. The price may be the same anyway. While we here, I want to spend a minute discussing getting the concrete to your site. Trucks are heavy. Very heavy. If your sidewalk or patio is in the rear yard, either the truck has to be able to get to it or you will have to wheel it in wheelbarrows. Wheeling 1 yard is not bad, wheeling 5 or 6 yards is a brute. You will need plenty of help and good wheelbarrows. Redi-mix companies also charge extra for any time spent over 1 hour on site. IF you decide to take the truck into the rear yard, be prepared for lawn damage. Concrete companies are not responsible for damage to your property if you direct them to drive over the lawn. Worse yet is if they pass over the septic system, buried pipes, etc. and damage them. BE SURE there is nothing underneath that can de damaged. Don't guess!
A Redi-Mix truck can weigh over 40,000 pounds! It will leave a lasting impression on your lawn and can damage lightweight asphalt driveways. Be careful where you send it.
You will need some misc. mixed lumber to form your concrete walk. 2x4's in long lengths work best. If you have a curve in the walk, it is best formed using strips of non-tempered masonite or 1/4" plywood. Whatever you use, it does not have to be pretty. It is going to be removed after the pour. Buy a bundle of 1"x2" or 1"x3" for stakes. These can be cut into 1 foot lengths and points cut on them. You will also need a couple of pounds of 8 penny common nails.
LAYOUT-
The easiest way to layout a new sidewalk is to use your garden hose. Simply lay the hose out on the ground where you want the walk to go. Forms do not have to be made of wood. Things such as brick, wood edging, pre-formed plastic edging are all used and produce many different edge finishes. If you use these types of things, just take extra care not to splash concrete on them. Concrete stains or discolors very easily and does not wash off well. When everything dries, the concrete you think you washed off, leaves a permanent stain. Another very helpful item available today for homeowner use is upside down paint at most hardware or box stores and comes in a variety of colors. This makes it very easy to spray a layout line for digging or removing sod or soil. DO NOT spray your hose unless you want it to be that color for a very long time. A few carefully placed spots that you connect after removing the hose is fine.
Make sure that you mark out the lines a few inches wider than the finished walk width. You need to get your 2 x4's and stakes inside the excavation and in most cases flush with the surrounding ground. If you are going to expose the edges of the new walk above ground, you will also have to finish the edges when you pour.
GROUND PREPARATION-
Never, never place concrete on frozen ground or mud. You need a firm foundation base for the new walk. You must remove the concrete thickness of earth plus the stone you will be placing underneath. A 4" walk usually gets 4" of stone base or good clean run-of bank sand and gravel. After removing the 8" of earth, place your sub-base material and tamp into place. Make it slightly wider than you walk width. Your forms will sit on top of the base. NOTE: Now is the time to run any yard lighting wires or conduits under the walk before you pour. Even if the lighting is in the future, you will be glad you make preparations now. Place a piece of 1" PVC conduit with caps under the walk for future use.
FORM WORK-
OK, we are using wood forms for this walk. Layout your 2x4's along the walk and drop stakes every few feet. Your 2x4s will be installed end to end so a stake is required at each joint. Starting on one side, install your 2x4's using enough stakes to firmly hold them in place. They must be straight and plumb. Nail the 2x4"s to each stake but DO NOT drive the heads all the way in. You have to remove these stakes later and it is a lot easier to get a hold of the nail head if it sticking out a little. If you have curves in your walk and are using 1/4" material to form you will of course have to use many more stakes. Just make sure the form is not going to move when you place the concrete against it.
Now cut a piece of scrap 1x2 the width of your walk. (3' in this case). Using this as a guide, install the opposite side of your formwork. It will save you having to measure over and over again and speeds up the work.
CONCRETE PLACING-
Ok, now we are ready to go. Check your list. Forms are all nailed? Not raining? Plenty of help? Got all the tools you need?
And most important did you order the concrete? Most companies require at least two days notice for homeowners to order. Commercial accounts come first due to their large volume of orders. BE READY! Remember the truck clock starts when he gets there, not when you start pouring. Using your garden hose, if the ground is very dry, slightly dampen it. This will help prevent premature drying of the concrete by the ground sucking the water out of the concrete before you get finished. Starting at the end the farthest from the truck (you will see why later) start placing the concrete in the forms. One person must, using his trowel, push the concrete into place and do a preliminary leveling within the forms. After placing a few feet of concrete, using a 2x4 as a screed, he can then level the entire width of the walk by sliding the 2x4 back forth over the top of the forms. You need one person leveling concrete with shovel, 2nd person using 2x4 as a screed to level concrete flush with the tops of forms and an extra third hand to wheel concrete, handle the chute, etc.
If a low spot in the concrete develops, just use the trowel to pickup some wet concrete and toss it in. Move back and re-screed over that area. If too much concrete develops in front of the screed just push or pull it into the area without concrete. You will soon get the hang of it. The people helping can watch as they pour the concrete from their wheelbarrows to be sure they don't overwhelm you. If you work slow and steady it goes pretty fast. OK, we now have the entire form filled with concrete. Place a little bit extra in one wheelbarrow and let the truck go. Now you need somewhere for the truck to wash out his chutes and you need to wash your tools and wheelbarrows. Concrete stains and gets HARD! Put it somewhere that can be easily cleaned later. Do not leave piles of concrete that cannot be moved.
FINISHING-
You get a few minutes break here. Have your favorite beverage and relax a little. The concrete will take a little while to start to setup but keep an eye on it. Touch it with your finger just like a cake. If it feels somewhat solid, now is the time to put the preliminary edge on it. Using the edger with a rolled lip, run it along the entire outside edges of your walk way. This will form a smooth sealed edge. You will have to pickup the edger many times and re-start. Just backup a few inches and moving ahead to remove the lip left when you picked the edger up. This will take some time so don't let the concrete "get away" (harden) on you. Once you have done an area, a 2nd person can start placing the v-grooves every 4 or 5 feet (less if you like the look). Using the edger, simply push the edger across the width of the walkway with enough pressure that both sides of the edger sit firmly on the concrete. This will leave a neat v-groove in the walk. You will get the hang of this very quickly. Don't worry for now about the little lip of concrete left on each side of the new groove and edges you made. Now using your broom, very lightly draw it across the width of the walk way being careful not to draw it across the v-grooves but do some very close to them and the edge of the walk. Read that sentence again. You can ruin the whole appearance of the walk if you mess this up. Be gentle but firm enough to leave broom lines in the concrete and wipe away the little lips of concrete you left behind when edging. The broom lines can be as heavy or as light as you like. This will leave a non-slip surface. Always broom across the path of the traffic, never with it. The trick here is to not to let the concrete harden before you are done. Start with a SMALL project and work your way up. After your first pour, you will know some of the tricks and better able to judge how fast concrete sets up.
Keep some plastic or tarps handy just in case you get a surprise downpour. You can quickly throw plastic over the pour and save it. If the rain washes out the top layer of concrete, the walk will be ruined.
It is very strongly suggested that you do not leave a smooth or hard trowel finish on any outside walk. It will become very slippery when wet. A broom finished side walk is what you normally see. There are colored aggregates that can be scattered over a walk to add color and a non-slip surface at the same time.
OTHER FINISHES-
Stamping-There are available metal stamping tools that can be used to place an imprint in wet concrete to simulate stone, pavers, brick, etc. These can produce a dramatic effect from plain concrete but take some experience to use.
COLORING-
You may be able to buy pre-colored concrete from your supplier. It is expensive but can come in many different colors. It is produced from regular wet concrete with a powder added to the mix while still in the truck. Pour the entire area in one pour. Just a slight change in the amount of powder or water or sand in each truck can produce a different shade of concrete. This will show when dry. The powder is measured in ounces with a postal scale. It is that exacting. Concrete suppliers have color charts for concrete but this needs to be ordered well ahead of time as they do not stock all colors.
EXPOSED AGGREGATE-
This is a really tricky method of finishing concrete. You purchase your concrete specifying the use of round washed river rock 3/4" or smaller. If you visit the concrete supplier, you can see what color the gravel he has available. Most river rock is beige/brown in various shades. It is not an exact science though and there will be some variation from week to week of what you can get. I have on occasion for a very large project, ordered enough stone to supply the total amount of yards required for the work. The supplier will of course want payment as he will have to wait to supply it as you need it, but it is one way to control final color and costs. Placement of the concrete is the same as any other side walk however the finishing is much different. After edging your walk, using your trowel you must place a flat finish on the walkway and let it sit. At just the right time, using your garden hose and spray nozzle, you literally wash off the top of the concrete removing the cement and leaving the stones beneath exposed. It is tricky but leaves a gorgeous finish. Too much water or pressure and you undermine the stones, too little and the concrete won't wash off enough to leave the stones exposed. The trick here is wash to before it gets too hard. You might well want to try process on a small test sample during a different pour. Washing lets the color of the stones show through. Do not try to finish after washing; you will smear the final finish
CLEANUP-
Always clean up your tools and yourself as soon as possible after the pour. Concrete can cause serious burns to the skin due to the lye in the concrete and many people are quite allergic to it. Always wear eye protection when pouring concrete. No matter how careful you are placing the concrete, it splashes everywhere. A small drop in your eye can cause serious pain and permanent eye injury. Place covers on anything you do not want concrete to get upon. Shrubs, flowers, lawns, etc. should be protected.
Many times, the average person uses the terms "cement" and "concrete" interchangeably without realizing that there is a difference. Even when the handyman refers to "cement," there is often a question as to exactly what he means. Before going into the details on mixing and various projects, here is a definition of terms:
1. Portland cement is a manufactured product purchased in sacks that usually contain 1 cubic foot.
2. Cement is a mixture of Portland cement, sand and water.
3. Concrete is a mixture of Portland cement and sand with gravel added to give it strength and bulk, plus water.
4. Mortar is a mixture of Portland cement, sand and water with about 10% hydrated lime added.
5. Grout is a flowing mass of cement or concrete.
How Much of Each?
For most cement jobs - to set flagstones or patch a house foundation, you need 1 part of Portland cement to 2½'' parts of clean, fine sand.
For concrete jobs, the proportion varies depending upon the use to which the concrete is put.
For mortar mixes - for playing brick or concrete block or repointing brick - use 1 part mortar cement or 1 part Portland cement with 10% lime added to 2½^'' parts fine, clean sand plus water.
Basic Tools for Concrete Work
Here are several of the basic tools you need when doing cement or concrete work about the house:
1. General-purpose trowel - for placing cement or concrete when doing any concrete work.
2. Pointing trowel - for smaller repair and patching jobs and also finishing details, especially the joint between rows of brick.
3. Wood float - for finishing the surface, making it smooth but with a gritty texture.
4. Steel float - for finishing the surface, making it smooth, slick and hard.
5. Edger - for finishing sidewalks and large surfaces where rounded corners are desired.
6. Strike board - for striking off the excess of the concrete; it leaves the surface level.
7. Tamper - for removing air inclusions in thick sections of freshly poured concrete.
8. Broom - for finishing surface of concrete jobs with a rough, non-slip surface.
Making a Measuring Box
When doing any extensive mixing of your own cement or concrete, a measuring box is exceedingly helpful, especially when using large quantities. You can make this bottomless measuring box in just a few minutes and avoid counting the ingredients by the shovels-full.
Use ¾'' plywood or 1" thick lumber to make a box with four sides - a cubic foot - 12" high, 12" wide and 12" deep. Secure the sides with screws set about 2" apart. Two short lengths of 2x2 attached on the sides make it easy to move the measuring box about.
How to Mix
All the ingredients must be thoroughly mixed to do the job. If you have failed to mix the Portland cement with the other materials, you undoubtedly will encounter difficulty later; the job just won't turn out right. If you follow several basic rules, you will be able to handle cement and concrete like an expert.
1. Mix the cement or concrete near the place where it is to be used.
2. Mix the cement or concrete just before you are ready to use it. Once mixed, the cement or concrete begins to set.
3. You can mix cement or concrete in a wheelbarrow, on any concrete surface or on a sheet of ply-wood. However, once you have finished pouring the mix, wash the surface off completely so that no cement or concrete hardens and sticks.
4. It is best for the homeowner doing a job to mix about a half a bag of Portland cement with the needed amounts of sand and gravel (when making concrete). This is about the most convenient amount for a handyman to handle at one time.
5. Mix the Portland cement and sand thoroughly when dry. After these two are fully mixed you can add gravel when making concrete.
6. Only after the gravel is thoroughly blended in with the Portland cement and sand should you add the water.
7. Always measure the ingredients - don't just guess. As a guide, if you don't have a "measuring box," use a shovel to measure. Remember that 1 shovel of Portland cement is equal to 1 shovel of damp sand or 2 shovels of dry sand or 2 shovels of gravel.
8. Follow the formula necessary for the mix you are preparing. Cement and concrete used for different purposes contain different proportions of Portland cement, sand and gravel.
9. When mixing concrete, the size of the gravel you use depends upon the thickness of the concrete you are pouring. The gravel should be not less than one-fourth nor more than one-third the thickness of the concrete mass. For example, when pouring a 4" thick layer of concrete, use clean, hard gravel in sizes from ¼'' up to about 1" or 1½''.
READY-MIXED CONCRETE - Relatively new is the availability of already mixed concrete from local companies. The concrete is delivered in a special truck and is ready for pouring in place.
The handyman can also use another form of ready-mixed concrete; this is sold already mixed in bags. All he has to do is add the water. This ready-mixed concrete and cement is prepared at the factory. Here is all you have to do:
1. Empty the bag of ready-mixed cement, and mix it once more by hand while still dry.
2. Add water as specified on the bag. A good proportion is one gallon of water to 90 pounds of the concrete mixture.
3. Mix thoroughly using a hoe, shovel or trowel.
4. Use the mix immediately; in no case should wet mixture stand for more than 45 minutes.
Concrete Forms
Many home improvement projects you will undertake involve the making of a wooden form. These forms should be made of sound lumber, free of knots and decay. The lumber should be dressed or smoothed on at least one side because it is easier to remove and leaves a better finish. This is particularly important if the surface is to be painted afterwards.
If the cement of concrete will not be painted afterwards, you may use oil, shellac or varnish over the wood to make them easier to remove.
If the form is set in the ground, as for sidewalks, stake the outside of the form. But if the object you make is separate, as a stone for a walk, you can set the form on a sheet of tarpaper or roofing paper.
Always align the form to see that the tops are level. Also make certain that the concrete fills in all the form and that there are no "holes" in the mass.
The Curing Process
When a high degree of water-tightness, durability and strength is desired, the cement or concrete should be cured. Curing is a process that delays the evaporation of the water in the mix. It lengthens and intensifies the hardening process, which is simply a chemical reaction between the Portland cement and the water.
The curing process continues as long as water is present to hydrate the cement. If concrete is not moist-cured, the surface dries first, often just after finishing, and before hardening of the mass below. Thus floors, sidewalks and all surfaces subject to wear will last longer if they are moist-cured for several days. Moist-curing of all patch work is essential.
The curing process itself is very simple. The cement must be covered and kept moist. The covering material can be wet burlap, canvas or straw. It should be kept wet by periodic sprinkling for at least five days. The covering should be placed on as soon as it can be done without marring the surface.
Walls and vertical surfaces can be protected by leaving the forms in place temporarily or by hanging the covering over them. In some cases, the covering material can be dispensed with as long as the surface is kept wet by periodic sprinkling.
One of the best coverings for curing is sheet plastic, available in large sizes and in rolls. About three or four hours after the surface of the concrete has been smoothed, it will be hard enough to take the plastic covering without sticking. Tack the plastic to the wooden forms, where used, or tape it in place with masking tape. The plastic will prevent water evaporation so no periodic sprinkling is necessary.
Make a "Memory Walk"
A "Memory Walk" leading to your driveway or curving around your garden can be a source of constant enjoyment to the entire family.
Such a walk is not too difficult to make. After your first stones are laid, you have a continuing project to keep memorable family dates alive.
The first stones for the walk can contain all the important dates you now have. There should be one with the date of your wedding; another for the birthday of your first child; if the family is growing, have a stone imprinted with the birthday of each child. You might include the date you bought your first home as well as other dates that bring back memories.
The stones can be made from a reliable dry pre-mixed concrete that needs only the addition of water to make a good workable mix. Use the concrete mix instead of the mortar or sand mix. You want strength for the stones.
A simple form made from 2x2 lumber will start you off. You will need 10' to 12'. Notch near the ends so the form will fit together like a child's building logs. In making these forms, you don't have to be as precise as in cabinet work. In fact, you can be downright sloppy and come out all right. Be sure the tops are level, though, so your stones will be level. Make the forms with inside dimensions about two feet by two feet. This will give you square stones, but won't be too difficult to handle when you go to lay them. One 90-pound bag of the dry pre-mixed concrete will fill this form with the addition of about one gallon of water. This will give you four square feet of stone at a cost ranging between 40¢ and 45¢ per square foot, depending on the part of the country you live in.
An old piece of tarpaper can serve as the base when pouring the concrete. If you start during inclement weather or in the winter, you can pour the stones in your garage or basement. Let each stone cure about 24 hours, and you can make one each evening.
Mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow using a garden hoe to thoroughly work the water into the mix. Then use a shovel to fill the form. Use a strike board made from scrap lumber to level off the mix. Then float with a steel trowel to get a smooth finish. Use an edger to give a slight curve to the top of the stones.
After you have this smooth finish, mark the date with a stick or piece of pipe. Use something you can handle easily. You can use script or block printing. Do this soon after you have smoothed the surface and before the concrete has set up too much.
If you want to start a series showing how your children are growing up, have them make footprints in the concrete. Better use old shoes. You can easily scrape the mix off. Leave enough space beneath the footprints for you to mark the date. Then each year on their birthdays, make a new stone with date and footprints. Replace one stone in your walk with the new one.
After the stones are completed, lay them in a bed of sand. With a space of a couple of inches between each stone, there will be no danger of cracking due to frost. The stones will be about two inches thick, if your form lumber has been properly dressed. The spaces between the stones can be filled with sand. Your pathway, of course, should be the width of the stones - two feet - and the depth - two inches. You will need to dig the ground out to these dimensions if you want the walk level with your grass. Or, you might wish to simply lay the stones out in a walk pattern on top of the grass. By using sand as your laying base, you can keep the walk flexible for the addition of the new stones. Since the stones will be relatively loose, they may heave during the winter. But it's not much trouble to push them back into place.
The notched forms can be stored for use when you want to make a new stone.
Memories can fade easily. With a concrete "Memory Walk," you can have a constant and up-to-date reminder of the times that have meant the most in your life.
What is Concrete Cutting?
Concrete cutting is a process of controlled sawing, drilling and removal of concrete performed by skilled operators using special saws that use diamond impregnated blades. Unlike the old- fashioned dusty "jack hammer" method, modern concrete cutting leaves a smooth attractive finish and utilizes water so as not to create any dust or mess. There are many different kinds of concrete cutting but the most common are wall sawing, core drilling and slab or flat sawing.
Wall Sawing is the process of cutting openings such as doors or windows in concrete walls, usually no more than 12" thick but in some cases up to 24" thick. This is accomplished by using a saw that attaches to a track on the wall to be cut. This process utilizes an enormous 30" or even larger diameter diamond blade that can cut 12" or more of concrete all of the way through from one side. This aspect of our business requires the most skill and cannot easily be done by your average "do it yourselfer." As stated, wall sawing may entail cutting openings in concrete foundations but may also include lowering a foundation elevation, entire foundation removal and also the cutting of concrete retaining walls in part or in whole. This type of concrete cutting requires skill and experience to cut perfectly smooth plumb and level openings with virtually no dust or mess, so it is a rather expensive service. Most concrete cutting companies charge a minimum of $425 just to take their equipment to a site and cut.
Homeowners that build additions on to their home that have basements or cellars commonly find they need to cut into their existing concrete foundation to add an entry or passage between the new and existing basements. It is much easier and in most cases less expensive to have this service performed during the construction process and not after.
Core Drilling is the process of drilling perfectly round holes through concrete walls and floors. The diameters of the holes range from 1" to 12" round but average 5" for most homeowner applications. In commercial applications core holes can range anywhere up to 60" round and more. Core holes are used for "utility penetrations" such as electrical, plumbing and heating but are also commonly used for venting furnaces or clothes dryers. Although not recommended, core drilling can be performed by an advanced "do it yourselfer" and the equipment necessary to perform core drilling is readily available at your local tool rental and supply store. Most companies have a minimum charge of $250 to core a hole for you and it can take a professional as little as 10 minutes to unload his equipment, core the hole, and reload his equipment. Yet, I have seen homeowners rent the equipment and spend an entire weekend trying to core a single hole and then call a professional to complete the project. Just like with any trade a professional concrete cutter will make his job look easy.
Slab sawing, also known as flat sawing, is used to cut horizontal flat concrete surfaces such as floors, bridge decks and pavement. Slab saws feature a diamond blade that is mounted on a walk-behind machine that requires only one operator. They can cut up to 33 inches in depth but generally only 6" or less is necessary in most homeowner applications. Slab sawing is the perfect solution for making penetrations or openings in concrete floors to access and repair a broken water pipe or sewer line. When a basement or cellar is being remodeled to add a bathroom the concrete is removed to add new plumbing for the fixtures. A slab saw is also useful in demolition work to break up and remove a cracked or unwanted patio, driveway or walkway. Sometimes a homeowner might want just part of a patio or other concrete slab cut in order to alter their landscaping. Attempting a slab saw project can be very time consuming for your average "do it yourselfer" however it can be accomplished. I always recommend spending a few extra bucks and saving yourself some very serious danger and aggravation by contracting a concrete cutting professional.
No matter what your project is, don't let a little concrete stand in your way. Concrete can be a homeowner's worst obstacle if he or she doesn't know that there are companies out there that specialize in removing it very quickly and neatly. To find a reputable concrete cutter I recommend that you start with the yellow pages and always check them out with your local Better Business Bureau or your local Department of Consumer Protection. To get more acquainted with the industry just do a search for "concrete cutting" and check out a few websites dedicated to the subject.
If you are having trouble with stoppages and blockages in your drainage pipes in the Dallas area due to the shifting nature of the ground or because the hard water of the area has affected the integrity of the pipes, then you might be exploring all of your options and gathering information on the best possible solutions. One solution that you may have heard of is called Pipe Bursting / Trenchless Technology.
You may wonder what is Pipe Bursting? It involves pulling a device through your existing pipe. A new pipe is attached to the device and is trailing behind it, being pulled along. As the device enters your current pipe, is bursts the old pipe by expanding inside of it. At the same time, it pulls the new pipe securely into place to replace the old one that has burst and shattered.
For this type of plumbing solution, as with most solutions for underground pipe problems -such as those very common in the Dallas Area - due to the shifting clay soil, it involves a certain amount of digging and excavating. There are two areas that would need to be dug and excavated. One area would be a pit that must be dug for the insertion of the device into the pipe that contains the blockage. The device would be pulled through the pipe by a cable. The cable is attached and pulled from the other end of the pipe. So, the other area that must be dug would be at the other end of the pipe, where the pulling machine is located. Basically you would have 2 pits dug, one at the back end of the pipe for insertion, and one at the other end of the pipe for pulling.
Any digging that is required for underground pipes to be repaired creates certain disadvantages. You oftentimes will damage the lawn, plants and landscaping, and it is a real challenge to avoid all sprinkler system plumbing as well. If the problem pipe is underneath the foundation of your house, or the driveway or sidewalks, then you also have the disadvantage of having to use a jackhammer to excavate and remove all of the concrete in the way. Not only does this create a mess, but you have to afterward repair and replace any damaged grass, plants, sprinklers, or indoor flooring. You also have to worry about ground settling around the fill dirt that was put back around the newly implanted pipe.
As the ground settles, it moves, and it can move pipes and plumbing along with it. Dallas Area soil in particular is vulnerable to this type of settling due to it's high concentration of clay. The nature of clay is its tendency to expand and contract. It is highly reactive to the moisture content of the soil. This expanding and contracting causes the soil to settle even faster, and this movement can definitely affect your underground plumbing. If you live in the area of Dallas, TX you will want to consult with an experienced Dallas plumber who is familiar with the traits of the local soil.
There are also some advantages to consider with Pipe Bursting. First of all, the possibility of future problems with the pipe are significantly reduced since you aren't just patching an old pipe. You are actually replacing it with a new one. You have peace of mind that the chances of future problems are greatly reduced, and since the pipe is brand new, you have better guarantees. Also, the excavation is limited to just the two digging areas, whereas when you replace the entire pipe the traditional way, by digging up your entire yard to get to the pipe and manually detach and replace it, you have a significant amount of excavation. Another unique advantage is that the new pipe, since it is one entire long pipe that was pulled underground to replace the old one, has NO seams. This limits the possibility of leaks along seams, but it also means that roots from trees and plants will stay out since they often entire pipes through these seams to access water inside the pipes.
A knowledgeable and trustworthy Dallas Plumbing Company or a licensed Dallas Plumber will be able to explain Pipe Bursting in more detail, as well as the other options you have available for solving your
As early as 3000 BC, the ancient Egyptians were the first to use the application of concrete in the building of their pyramids. Concrete mortar was used to secure each block in the construction and many pyramids are still standing today. The modern version of the concrete mortar is the cement such as the Portland cement.
Since then, concrete has been utilized on construction of homes, infrastructure, sculpture and roads. Concrete's affordability, versatility and ease of use make it a popular building material. The floor is usually the part of a building or house that is concreted for various reasons. One is because a concrete flooring is ideal for decorating the home in many interior schemes. A concrete floor also serves as an ideal base for installation of other flooring products like carpets, hardwood and tiles. In addition, floors made up of concrete are durable, costs cheaper due to lower fee of labor and easy to clean compared to other flooring types.
There are concrete floors which appear gray and plain just like those found in garages and factories. However there are also other types of concrete that are more chic and stylish. Concrete floors may be painted, stained, glossed or enhanced with other materials as preferred by the homeowner. Stained concrete floors are stained with colors to match any decoration. The color of the tile may be used as the same color to stain the concrete floor. Little bumps and ridges are created on textured concrete floors for a better traction while walking.
Nowadays, there is even a new technology utilized on concrete floors. Concrete floors tend to get cold especially on colder temperature so before the cement mixture is poured on the floor, radiant floor pipes or flexible tubing are first laid on the surface. With this technology of concrete flooring, the floor will be kept warm even in the coldest climate and you can walk on the floor even without any footwear.
The time it takes to finish the installation of a concrete floor is based on how big or small the floor area is. Apparently, a small floor area to be covered may only take a short period of time to complete while a larger area may be finished after a longer time period. For a standard living room or family room whose floors need to be concreted, expect the concreting task to be finished in a day or two. Moreover if you want the floor to have additional finishes or touches, those additional procedures may also take additional days to complete.
If you are planning the floor of your house or office to be concreted, there are a few things you need to consider. One is your budget. A very tight budget may prompt you to accomplish the concreting task on your own. However, the problem with DIY floor concreting is you might not be able to mix an exact proportion for the cement and water mixture and will lead to a poor result. Hiring professional concreters or concrete contractors may cost a little but you are guaranteed of a better end result. If you want to stick with DIY task completion, you will need to research first on the proper proportions of materials to mix.
In the field of construction alone, there is a large demand for pipe fitters. Pipe fitting jobs have multiplied exponentially with the advent of the construction boom and with the surge in demand came the need for hiring better trained pipe. This field focuses on the installation and repair of tubing and piping systems which convey liquid, gas, and to some extent solid materials. Adequate training is given to pipe which make them versatile in the different procedures in tubing and pipe installations for different applications.
The pipe fitters deals with a variety of pipe construction materials including clay, lead, steel, aluminum, copper, plastic, iron, and concrete. They deal with the various piping systems in terms of its set up, installation, repair and maintenance services. The water distribution systems, waste disposal systems, heating and cooling, and cooking systems are all included in the work of the pipe and the pipe jobs.
The pipe fitter also deals with working with either the low pressure or the high pressure piping systems in heating, cooling, manufacturing, and in electricity generation in structures and edifices. Part of the pipe fitting jobs, which is considered to be an important facet, is the reviewing and evaluation of building plans and blueprints.
Other functions of the pipes fitter include the configuration of pipes, its cutting and threading, bending, welding, and brazing. The pipe also configures the automatic control modules which would operate the different piping systems and installations. A good example of this is the automatic fire sprinkler system. Pipes Fitter Jobs also make use of a variety of installation techniques and materials which are compatible with the specific project requirements.
Adequate Training for Pipe Fitters
Specialty schools provide formal training for pipe. There are comprehensive programs for apprenticeship which provide extensive training and development for aspiring pipe. These programs usually require an educational investment period of 4 to 5 years, with a classroom training totaling 144 hours, inclusive of paid on-the-job training.
The classroom training contains modules in mathematics, physics, chemistry, safety, drafting and blueprint interpretation. Through the on-the-job training, apprentices become equipped with the necessary skills and training prior to getting pipes jobs. With their experience, these pipe learn of different approaches and methodologies in piping system installations. Different locations across the globe require licensure which includes hurdling written examinations.
The Future of the Pipe Fitter
Typical to many rising and popular professions, the pipe position is increasing in demand by as much as 10 percent per annum in a projected period from 2006 to 2016. This demand is proportionate to the burgeoning construction industry worldwide. It also gives emphasis to pipe with additional skills like welding and the demand also perks up with the wave of retiring pipes and tradesmen.
The pipes job has been a rewarding career. With current trends, the pipe earn in the range of $35,000 to $48,000 annually, with the upper 10 percent bracket of pipe grossing more than $55,000 per year.
As the title suggests, we live in a world which is now very commonly referred to as a "concrete jungle". This term is usually seen in a negative light, as it implies ruining our forests in the process of making everything concrete. But, development is a natural process and change is inevitable. If a balance between urbanisation and restoration of our forests is maintained, the term "concrete jungle" will surely not been seen in bad light.
Frankly, it is now nearly impossible to imagine our lives without walls, pavements, foundation, roads, dams, pipes, fences, as well as boats. The common factor between all these facilities provided to us is that they are made of concrete. Its usage in the world is second only to naturally occurring water. Thorough mixture of concrete is essential for its use, for which various mixers and equipments have been and are being manufactured usually within 100 km of the job site.
A concrete mixer is equipment designed to combine cement, sand or gravel, water and concrete. It consist of a revolving drum which does the mixing job (for a lesser volume portable mixers are used), making it easier for the construction workers to use the concrete long before it dries and hardens. In today's market, there are three kinds of concrete mixers widely available: twin-shaft mixers which are intensive mixers done in less time and are used for high strength concrete. For smaller batches used for pre-stressed concrete, vertical axis mixers are usually used, whereas, for large volumes of concrete (buildings, dams, and roads) drum mixers are utilized.
There are sometimes variations in the standard concrete transport, which is a concrete mixer trailer. These concrete mixer trucks are used to supply short loads of concrete mixtures usually in rental yards and building material location where the mixed supply is easily available to their regular customers.
Concrete pumps on the other hand are machines which are used to transfer the mixed concrete through pumping. They are of two kinds, the first one being the trailer-mounted boom concrete pump as it uses a remote controlled robotic arm (called boom) to place the concrete at the exact place where it is required. This kind of concrete pumping machine is used at large construction projects as they pump at an extremely high intensity and the robotic arm saves the usage of manual labourers.
The other type of a concrete pump is known as a truck mounted concrete pump. This kind of pump requires steel or flexible concrete placing hoses which is attached to the back of the truck. The said hoses are linked together and lead to wherever the concrete needs to be used. These pumps normally pump concrete at lower volumes than the trailer-mounted boom concrete pumps and are used for smaller volume concrete placing applications such as swimming pools, sidewalks, etc.
Being a $30 billion industry in the United States alone and regarding just the value of readymade concrete mixtures sold every day, the aforementioned machineries as well as concrete spare parts and other equipments are supplied by well-known companies. While buying such machinery, great care should be taken and research should be done about the credentials of the supplying company as there are many imposters in the market who will supply defective goods in order to make a quick profit in this thriving industry.
Hence, in all aspects of concrete batching, delivery, pumping and storage of concrete, a company which is recognised in the industry for its ability to provide the buyers with the most advanced equipment, as well as conceptual design consultancy for all commercial, industrial and infrastructure projects should be approached for any work regarding concrete.
It is a concrete jungle out there for sure, it is just our job to make sure the concrete used to create our jungle is of good quality and is used correctly, which can only be fulfilled with the help of the equipments and companies supplying such equipments mentioned above.
Nearly every construction project involves some form of cutting concrete or core boring. While cutting concrete may seem fairly simple and straightforward, in actual practice there are several considerations to keep in mind to have a safe and successful concrete cutting or boring project.
Fist, you must know that concrete dust is potentially damaging to the lung sinuses and eyes. Concrete dust also becomes corrosive and abrasive and may damage surrounding finish.
Dust control becomes an important consideration when cutting concrete either with a saw or a drill or core boring bit. The two most common dust control methods are wet cutting where the dust is collected in the cooling water and pneumatic devices that pull the dust away in an air stream.
When using a diamond cutting blade or other abrasive disk cutting device such as concrete saw, the water also serves to lubricate and cool the cutting tools. Consideration must me made to handle the spillage of cooling water on to the surface being cut. Drainage must be provided or a vacuum system like a wet vac can be used to control the spread of the cooling water.
When using electric powered tools, adequate grounding, insulation and appropriate ground fault protection must be provided. Standing in a puddle of water while operating and electric tool can be fatal if proper protections are not in place.
An extra precaution must be added when using core drilling machine. Many of these machines rely on suction to keep the bas in place during the drilling operation. The friction of the base suctioned against the floor provides the resistance to rotation while drilling.
Two competing factors come in to play during the lock down operation. The slicker the floor, the better the suction seal will be. However, there will be less resistance to rotation due to friction from the slick floor. Especially if the concrete is wet. Also, while a rough floor may provide more friction, the roughness will not allow a strong vacuum seal against the floor.
In either case the vacuum seal is not completely reliable and may fail during the drilling operation. The operator must be keenly aware of the possibility that the machine base my rotate violently without warning. The operator must keep his body out of the possible rotation path of the machine bas at all times during a core drilling operation.
A more reliable method of securing the machine is to set a simple concrete anchor through the base in addition to the vacuum seal. Most machines have a provision for such an anchor and the small hole required for the anchor is easily repaired in the concrete floor.
When making any kind of cut in concrete be it a straight line cut with a concrete saw or making a round hole with a core drill, you must also consider what is hidden in the concrete.
Not only will the concrete contain re bar and rocks that can snag the cutting tool, but often plumbing lines and electrical conduit are often buried in the concrete. And they will likely not be exactly where the drawings show them to be.
Before any concrete cutting operation take care to locate as precisely as possible any pipes or conduit that may be buried in the concrete.
A cutting blade will slice through a conduit with ease often shorting the wires together on the blade. However, care must be taken that the operator does not become the ground path instead of the conduit or other wires. If possible, de energize any power lines that may be in the vicinity of the cutting or drilling operation.
Concrete cutting requires sharp tools, quality equipment in good repair, a good supply of cooling water and a skilled operator. Operating concrete cutting equipment can be simple and safe, but the operator must be familiar with the potential hazards and know all the functions of the equipment he is operating.
Steel is an alloy and consists mostly of iron with carbon. Although carbon is most cost-effective alloy material, various other alloying elements are also used, including manganese, vanadium, chromium, and tungsten. These alloying elements harden the iron and varying amounts of these alloying elements determines qualities such as the ductility, hardness, and tensile strength of steel. Steel is the most common material in the world today and it is a major component in infrastructure and buildings as Steel Pipes and Steel Tubes, tools made from Steel, in ships, machines, automobiles, and appliances.
A pipe in general terms is a hollow cylinder or tube and is used to carry or convey materials but is also used as a component in structures. The terms tube and are interchangeable and a pipe is generally referred by its internal diameter, while a tube is generally defined by its external diameter. Steel Pipes and Steel Tubes have many uses and are used for Domestic Water Systems for carrying water to Homes and offices, as part of indoor plumbing. Huge and extensive steel pipelines are also used for transporting gas and water to cities and facilities far away from the source. Some pipelines are also used to transport other liquids and chemicals to and from facilities, internally and externally. Pipelines are also used to transport sewage, slurry, and even beer, but the most important uses for Steel pipes are to transport water for domestic use, oil and natural gas.
Besides transporting materials, pipes are also used as scaffolding to support people and materials in construction and repair of office buildings, homes, and other structures. Steel Pipes and Steel Tubes are also used as components in mechanical systems as Rollers in conveyor belts, Compactors, as casing in constructions for concrete pilings, Pressure manufacturing processes, High temperature manufacturing processes, Casings for Oil wells, Oil refining equipment, etc. Pipes and tubes are available in different diameters, sizes, tensile strength, lengths, etc. Depending on the use, pipes and tubes can also be custom manufactured, as they are for the oil and gas industry. For domestic and industrial use, pipes and tubes are sold through distributors and traders.
Pipes and tubes for general use in industry and homes can be bought directly from pipe distributors and traders who stock different sizes and diameters of pipes. Steel pipes have been manufactured for over 150 years and pipe sizes used today in galvanized and PVC pipes were designed for steel pipes years ago. The numbering system - Sch 40, 80, 160 was set a long time ago and seems a bit odd, as Sch 40 is thicker than Sch 1120, but with the same outer diameter. While these pipe sizes have been based on the old sizes, there are other pipes like the gold flow cpvc size for heated water that uses sizes, internal and external, based on the old copper size standards. There are so many uses of pipes and tubes and they are manufactured in so many sizes, diameters, and qualities that it has become an indispensable part of daily life.
What is it that makes High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) pipes such a craze among pipe manufacturers? Answer to that question is this material increases the longevity of the pipes. It protects them from corrosion and makes them absolutely immune to aging. That is the reason the history of the usage of these HDPE pipes is 49 years old.
These pipes were first used in various countries in all over Europe. However, the kind of HDPE that is used these days is far more sophisticated and has better resistance against corrosion. It is seen that a pipe that was buried since 1982 was protected from aging thanks to what some industry experts call second generation HDPE.
The PEX pipes that have this kind of polyethylene not only last longer than ordinary metal pipes but preserve all kinds of antioxidants has made these pipes so unique. They have a great resistance towards water pressure.
This is the reason that most of the house owners are now a days going for plastic pipes. Apart from their practical purpose these pipes also have an economical side as well. These pipes are not at all expensive and thus will help you save some money.
These HDPE pipes are also very easy to install. You will not have to have a Herculean strength to install them. They are very lightweight, which makes it easier also to carry them. These qualities definitely make these pipes ideal for homes as well as business houses. Polyethylene pipes are better from pipes that are made of steel or concrete. It can be said that this kind of pipes have taken construction to a new level and they are the latest trends of the day.
In 2008 when the pipe industry saw a decline of about 15 percent in the United Sates the sales of HDPE pipes also came down but they stayed ahead in comparison to that of PVC pipes. This shows the kind of favorable image this kind of pipes have. Moreover, according to a survey it is very much expected that the market of these HDPE pipes will see an increase in demand by at least 10 percent. The corrugated HDPE pipe market too is expected to rise by 15 percent.
Considering all these scenarios the suppliers and manufacturers of HDPE pipes have enough reason to even in this tough financial time. This is a technology that really has a very bright
A concrete batch plant is a mixing plant where sand, gravel, cement, water, and other materials are turned into concrete. The concrete produced in concrete batch plants is used for the foundations of buildings, paving material for roads and parking lots, pipes used for drainage and plumbing and precast concrete components.
In the past, concrete batch plants posed environmental issues in that they produced large amounts of dust and other particles that contributed to air pollution as well as dirty runoff water. Today, however concrete batch plants are designed to reuse wastewater and decrease the amount of pollution emitted.
Concrete batch plants are used by the construction industry and are required to produce high volumes of concrete and to be portable or stationary as required for a particular construction site. There are various models of concrete batch plants available on the market designed to suit the particular needs of the construction industry. Self-loading batching plants are ideal for use at pre-cast yards and building sites. They are particularly useful for sites where continual concrete production is required 24 hours per day. The self-loading batch plant is fitted with a radial scraper that loads all the mineral materials, used in making concrete, into a weigh hopper. This is achieved via a programmable computer. The batch plant then discharges the mixture from the weigh hopper into either a pan mixer; drum mixer or dry belt conveyor. The options available for self-loading batching plants are that they can be supplied with or without cement silos or bag splitters, they can be electrically powered or diesel driven, computer weighing systems with a capacity of up to 36 different programmable settings, manual, semi-automatic or fully automatic control panels, water systems and the option of ad-mixture plants.
There are different types of self-loading concrete batching plants such as:
- The Robomix, which is fitted with a drum mixer and is ideal for use on the job site as they are able to discharge concrete into dumpers.
- The Robomescolatore is fitted with a Pan Mixer and is ideally suited to use in precast yards. They discharge concrete via a single hydraulically operated hatch that can be adjusted to suit most heights.
- The Hydromix dry batching plants, which are fitted with conveyor belt discharge systems, are ideally suited for use with conventional truck mixers.
- Bin-Fed batching plants are transportable, fully automated, have their own hydraulic off-loading legs and are capable of producing outputs of up to 40m3 per hour. These batch plants can be custom made to suit construction industry specifications, with accessories added such as: ad-mixture plants, low-level or upright cement silos, aggregate feeders and water chillers.
Concrete batch plants should be placed close to a construction site, so fewer transit concrete mixer trucks are used thus saving the industry fuel costs, labour and equipment costs.
Polybutylene piping was used extensively in home construction during the period between 1975 and 1995, due largely to its low cost and ease of installation. Polybutylene piping can cause several problems, primarily due to the fact that it can react with water and become brittle, flaking off and causing the pipes to fail without warning. Because they can fail, it is important to know if you have this type of piping, and here we'll go over a few ways to recognize polybutylene piping in your home.
Obviously, the best way to recognize polybutylene is to have a professional plumber or home inspector take a look. You may be able to tell if your home has this type of piping by looking on your own, but it is hard to recognize if it is damaged simply by looking if you are not experienced. There are, however, a few things you can look for in order to tell if you have this type of piping. Once you have confirmed it, you can have a professional check for any potential damage and help you figure out a solution.
Polybutylene underground water main pipes tend to be blue in color, but can also be gray or black. Black poly should not be confused with polybutylene. The pipes tend to be half an inch to an inch in diameter, and can be seen entering the home through the basement floor or wall, through a concrete slab, or even through a crawlspace. Generally, it will come through the home near the water heater, which is a good place to start looking. There are some cases where copper piping is used near the home, and polybutylene piping is used near the water meter, so it is important to check both ends.
Polybutylene piping can also be used inside the home, and is most easily found near the water heater. It can also be found running along the ceiling in uncompleted basements, and coming out of the walls to provide water to sinks and toilets. Some areas use copper stub outs, so if you see copper near the fixture it does not mean that polybutylene piping is not used for the rest of the piping. If you do find this type of piping, it is generally a good idea to replace it, but this must generally be done with the aid of a professional plumber, especially if it is damaged.
Concrete is one the most broadly used construction materials in almost all countries around the world. This construction material composed of cement and other materials has allowed for the formation of stronger and more durable structures such as houses, buildings, roads and bridges among others. Furthermore, its tremendous popularity as a fundamental construction material is apparent and can be seen in almost everything that surrounds us. It is used extensively in constructing pavements, pipe, fences, walls, sound barriers, parking lots, bridges, overpasses, home and building foundations and much more.
There are several different types of concrete with each having unique characteristics and materials used, including reinforced and pre-stressed concrete. However, although there are many types to choose from, nothing is easier to use than precast concrete. Using it in constructing barriers can offer more benefits than any other type of standard concrete.
Precast concrete is made by casting concrete into in an existing mold which is then allowed to form and harden, after which it is removed and shipped to the construction site or home and then erected in place. This type of concrete can be found in pretty much any part of a home or building including stairways. This type of concrete is also ideal for covering a building, either in full or in part, as free standing fences and walls for making the landscape look nice, for soundproofing and for erecting security walls or barriers.
Using this type of forms in constructing barriers is more economical, practical, and can save a lot of money. What makes this type of concrete outstanding, especially for putting up barriers, is that it looks aesthetically-appealing, not like regular cement. This type of concrete can be stained and manipulated during the formation process to make barriers look more like a naturally occurring rock or stone. Furthermore, some concrete barriers made from this type of concrete are also claimed to be resistant against graffiti and vandalism marks.
Aside from being aesthetically pleasing, concrete barriers made from precast concrete can last for years and can hold up against the wear and tear of the changing weather or climatic conditions. One of the advantages of using this type of concrete is that it is made from highly-engineered and quality materials. This type of concrete can guarantee more strength and durability for the barriers, which means it will take years for them to wear down and be replaced with new ones. The natural characteristics of this kind of concrete make it possible to save a lot of money.
By using this type of concrete for barriers, the construction costs can be lessened and it is more practical to use as compared to pouring concrete into the mold on site. In addition, time can be saved from constructing the barriers. Since they are already molded and dried, these barriers can be immediately put and erected onto their proper places.
Are you interested in a concrete manhole project? Precast concrete manholes are a relatively simple idea. Manholes, which are the top opening to a vault (usually used for underground work), must be made of very strong material. A manhole is used to house an access point, and is often involved in the construction of underground sewer systems, telephone systems and electrical systems. The underground vault is protected by the manhole cover. This cover protects workers against outside elements as well as any intruders.
Manhole systems can be made from metal, though concrete is a popular alternative. Precast concrete manholes are a European trend that is making its way to mainstream U.S. construction. Precast manholes should be very sturdy and durable. Most manhole covers and openings are reinforced to withstand constant pressure such as air traffic or highway traffic. They can also accommodate virtually any type of pipe.
Precast concrete manholes are often used in the construction of modern sewer systems. This type of system is able to provide superior watertight performance, especially when compared to steel or other materials. The manhole is typically installed about 500 feet beneath the ground level. Lateral forces around the surface react equally causing pure compression; concrete materials are thus ideal.
Concrete is the more advantageous investment than steel. Steel has the tendency to soften and melt with exposure to high temperatures. Concrete is also seen as the safer choice, especially when safety is a key issue. Concrete systems are reinforced and offer greater resistance to explosion of extreme impact. Furthermore, precast concrete manholes do not require any fireproofing treatments. They withstand natural and manmade disasters very well. Concrete can withstand winds of over 200 miles per hour!
Another important factor to consider is that precast concrete manholes are usually less expensive options than steel. While prices of most construction materials have spiked, concrete materials have remained economically stable. Meanwhile, the price of steel has inflated greatly. Concrete is also a more flexible material than steel, since it can take practically any shape. Concrete can take the form of anything.
Greater durability, cost efficiency and flexibility-all good reasons why you should choose concrete in construction. If you are involved in the creation of a sewer system or another utility project in your city or town, consider choosing precast concrete manholes. Look for a company that offers the highest quality materials at an affordable and market appropriate price.
A Concrete core drill is a specialized tool designed for drilling through various thicknesses of concrete with a wide range of concrete core bits. Unlike drilling through wood, sheet rock or plastic, concrete core drilling is a difficult and timely procedure for the typical do-it-yourself homeowner. Boring small concrete holes are typically easier and safer with sharp concrete bits than drilling larger diameter concrete holes (concrete drill bits can be as large as 72 inches-even larger). Always utilize caution with and hand-held core drills or core rigs.
There are two types of concrete drills: hand-held and core rigs. A Hand held concrete drill is a mobile tool utilized for smaller holes and generally take smaller diameter core bits. These types of tools are predominantly powered by electricity and cost much less than stand mounted core rigs. Handheld core drills are perfect for boring holes to make passages for small utilities-wires, pipes and cable.
Stand mounted concrete core rigs are utilized when large amounts of concrete are needed to be removed. Core rigs are able to take a much broader width of core bits because they are more stable and provide the user with a greater measure of security. The stand mounted concrete drill is fastened to the surface you are going to drill by bolts, making the drill safe and secure and easy to use. This also allows the drill to be used on vertical or horizontal surfaces; a major benefit for running larger utility lines. Unlike concrete handheld drills-which run primarily on electricity, concrete core rigs come with electric, gas and air power supplies.
Concrete bits act just like regular wood hole saws and are mounted on shafts of varying length to accommodate a wide range of concrete depths. Extenders are used to reach even greater depths. Unlike wood hole saws, the teeth of a core bit are diamond and able to penetrate concrete easily. Depending on the job, core bits have a variable life expectancy, but should always be kept sharp and not used past their time. The danger to the user grows exponentially the duller the bits.
There are many professional companies that offer their services to bore concrete holes for any purpose. If you choose to do the job yourself, please research the topic well and know your tools. Saving money as a do-it-yourself homeowner is always off-set by a trip to the hospital. Be safe.
When it comes to building materials, concrete is one of God's gifts to mankind! There's simply no better way to explain it. The components which make up concrete are both naturally plentiful - making it economic to produce - and environmentally friendly, due to it not having any byproducts. And did you know concrete can be recycled as well? - Another 10 points in the eco-friendliness department.
About 7 and a half cubic kilometers of concrete are produced every year! - More than a cubic meter of concrete for every man, woman, child, dog, and cat on this planet! Concrete is used to make a wide variety of structures including roads, piping, foundations, bridges, parking lots, walls, and at least 50% of all our infrastructures! Being as user-friendly as it is, with all its qualities, I'm not surprised.
Modern concrete is made out of a mixture of Portland cement, aggregate, and water. What kind of aggregate you add depends on what you will use the finished product for. Mortar for example, is just sand and Portland cement, whereas concrete will have coarser aggregate as well as sand. Despite concrete's amazing compressive strength, it has significantly weaker tensile strength, and needs to therefore be reinforced by a material with stronger tensile properties before it can be reliable for most building projects.
Reinforced Concrete
The most common reinforcing material is steel "rebars", short for reinforcement bars. Other methods and materials such as grids, plates or fibers are known to be used to lesser degrees, but rebar is the most common. There is also what is known as pre-stressed concrete, which is the same as normal reinforced concrete except that the rebar on the tensile face is placed in tension prior to concrete pour, and released after the concrete is cured.
On a typical concrete beam, there is an "outer face" and an "inner face". When this beam undergoes flexure, a curvature will form. The outer or tensile face will experience tensile stress and the inner or compressive face, compressive stress. Installing pre-stressed rebar on the outer face of the beam creates a built-in compressive force on this outer face. This means that when loads are applied, the built-in compression will experience a reduction, but will not translate into a tensile force - until the load overcomes the compression in the rebar.
Drawbacks to Concrete
With all its astounding qualities, you might be wondering where the drawbacks are. Well, there aren't all that many, but there are a few. All concrete will eventually form cracks. Sorry, but it's true. No matter how well you followed the rules, you just can't get away from this one. This is another major reason for reinforcement. Cracks are inevitable, but the reinforcement will hold it together and keep it from getting worse.
Due to concrete's extremely low coefficient of thermal expansion, repeated freeze/thaw cycles are one of the major contributors to concrete cracking. Preventative measures such as the adding of expansion joints to absorb the movement from these cycles aid tremendously in preserving the life of your concrete.
If you have ever had to have your sewer lines or indoor plumbing lines repaired, or perhaps you have heard the stories told by others, then you know how arduous a process it can be. So, if you find yourself in need of new water lines or pipes, then chances are, you are not looking forward to the experience. But what if there were an alternative to the traditional sewer and water lines? Rather having your lawn or driveway dug up and making the yard look unsightly and causing a long list of inconveniences for your household, now you can opt for trenchless pipe replacement.
Simply put, trenchless pipe replacement (sometimes called pipe rehabilitation, pipe breaking, trenchless technology or no dig) is when underground pipe-work is replaced without digging long, ugly trenches that disrupt lawns, sidewalks, driveways and other features of your property. In fact, when trenchless pipe replacement is used there is 90% less damage done to the grounds or concrete work. Of course, this is not the only reason, albeit a good one, that many people are opting for trenchless pipes rather than the traditional. Here are some of the other advantages of trenchless pipe replacement.
Pipe rehabilitation can save on your water, electrical and gas lines because it does not need to be turned off or re-installed due to digging a new drain line.
If in the future, you have any problems with your sewer/water lines, a trenchless system works more effectively with a sewer camera inspection making it easy to determine where the problem is.
The no dig technology means that water flows better and the plumbing system is longer lasting than "traditional" pipelines.
Trenchless pipe replacement is cheaper than sewer line replacement because it is not necessary to dig up the sewer lines and destroy the existing landscape and cement work. As a result, you will not have the added expense of repairing your yard after the job is complete.
Trenchless pipe replacement can be done anywhere-whether you live in the mountains, the city or at the beach, no region is off limits for pipe rehabilitation.
Any future repairs are easily made via the 2 small access points at either end of the pipeline, meaning that it is not necessary to uncover the entire system.
Like anything else in life, if there are advantages to something, there are usually disadvantages as well. Trenchless pipe replacement is no different. Here are the disadvantages of trenchless pipe replacement:
In order to maintain that any additional lines-electrical, gas, etc... are not damaged, it may be necessary for the workers to do some hand digging in the yard to establish where these lines are located.
The labor cost can be higher as the equipment used is expensive.
Occasionally, it may be necessary to remove some of the landscaping, but only if the root system of the plants it will cause future problems.
Precast concrete is the term used for concrete construction products that are made in molds under controlled conditions and then shipped to construction sites. This technique, first utilized in 1905, creates concrete products that are much better in quality and uniformity than standard concrete components that are poured and cured on-site. Because prefabricated concrete products are produced in managed environments, there is greater management over quality and workmanship than can typically be found in outdoor concrete construction settings. By producing the products in precast plants, the concrete is afforded the opportunity to cure to exact specifications and the molds can be very easily reused.
There are many advantages to employing precast concrete products in a construction project. These can include strength, durability, fire resistance, chemical resistance, aesthetics, low maintenance, safety and ease of installation. Because precast processing plants specialise in concrete, they can offer a variety of shapes, sizes, colors and finished that can not be found in an on-site concrete construction process. Because the molds used to create precast products can be reused many times, there is a reduction in overall construction costs. On top of that, because most prefabricated products are developed and manufactured for simple connection, they save on labor expenses as they can be lifted and installed into place in a short period of time.
Precast concrete products are now generally used worldwide for many different applications. Municipalities use concrete products for waste water disposal and treatment and storm water drainage. Thousands of transportation structures like terminal buildings and platform risers have been erected worldwide using precast concrete construction products for many years. Other examples include feed and water troughs for animals, barriers for use in transportation construction zones, building walls, landscape retaining barriers, storm cellars, pump stations, cemetery vaults, communication vaults and containers for the storage of hazardous materials; just to name a few.
New home building is now making more use of prefabricated concrete walls because they provide greater durability and lower manpower costs. Concrete walls can last longer than other types of home construction materials due to greater resistance to rot, insect damage and high winds. The walls can be of a single or double thickness which are made to exact specifications so they can be effortlessly installed. Double thickness walls are also called sandwich walls when they are produced from two layers of concrete with a layer of insulation sandwiched in between. Since they are molded to precise specifications, concrete walls can also be made with door, window and pipe access openings already in place.There is predicted to be a big increase in the use of precast concrete globally for the long term. Population increases and the depletion of other natural resources usually utilised in construction, particularly in developing nations, will dictate an increased use of precast concrete building procedures.
If you are having problems with your house or building pipes, such as leaky pipes, pipe corrosion or discolored water, you may be wondering if you need a complete repipe. Was your home or building built prior to 1970? Homes or buildings built on or before the 1970's are most likely made up of galvanized piping.
Galvanized pipes are iron pipes coated with zinc for weather protection. As these pipes age, the zinc erodes, exposing the raw iron into the water causing the pipes to eventually begin to rust. Galvanized pipes rust from the inside out and there is really no way to tell what kind of shape your plumbing is in from the outside.
The usual life span for a galvanized pipe system is about thirty years. There are no effective methods to easily get rid of rust accumulation or reverse the scaling process with galvanized pipe systems.
As the rust and deterioration factors worsen, you may have any of the following:
reduced water pressure and flow
moist/damp spots in your drywall,concrete floors, or wooden structure
pipe corrosion
discolored or rusty water (brown water)
bad water: foul-smelling and unfit to drink
leaky pipes (can result in mold growth in your walls, attic,under slab)
If your house or building is experiencing low water pressure, mineral scaling or corroding pipes, then you will inevitably need to repipe your entire plumbing system with copper pipes.
Copper repiping is a process of refitting all of the existing hot and cold water pipes in a house or building. After you replace your old galvanized pipes with copper, you will immediately experience the following:
Increased Water Pressure and Volume
Cleaner, Rust-free, Better Tasting Water
Eliminate plumbing repair costs related to rusting, corroding pipes (see above)
Added value to your home
Following the work most people become amazed to see the improved convenience of simultaneous use of water around the house. Many can find that you can wash dishes, run a load of laundry, shower, water the lawn and so on, all at the same time due to the increased water pressure.
If you replace those old problematic galvanized pipes with new copper pipes, you will experience lifetime benefits because your pipes will no longer rust or corrode.
Plumbing has come a long way in the last 2,000 years. Yes, Ancient Romans are famous for their aqueducts, surely one of mankind's greatest inventions, but what we must also remember is that those same Romans were the first civilization to transport water with the use of lead, a toxin. Now, as it turns out, the Romans lucked out by having high calcium content in their drinking water, which coated their pipes and kept them safe (the same could not be said about their lead cookware, unfortunately).
Since that time, humans have gone through many different materials to convey their water. Wood was used in Britain and Early America, for example. Concrete has been used, a material that Romans would have approved of. In modern America, copper has long been the choice, but with the ever-rising cost of copper, that may be finally changing.
Enter stainless steel, an American classic.
More and more, homeowners, businesses, and contractors alike are heading to steel pipe supply companies for their water conveyance needs. Surprisingly, they cite cost, among many other things, as one of their main reasons for changing. Stainless steel pipe prices may not be the same as copper, but as any contractor will tell you, many factors go into the final cost of a product.
First off, steel pipe is lighter than copper, so transporting it is cheaper. The initial savings here may be minimal, but for contractors who make repeated trips to steel pipe supply companies, this means big savings. Contractors will also be quick to note that stainless steel pipe is less likely to be stolen by worksite thieves, who have become a real nuisance to anyone installing copper in the last decade or so.
Home and business owners will also be happy to know that stainless steel pipe prices also lessen over the long term, for many reasons. Stainless steel pipe requires no coating, yet it resists both internal and external corrosion, meaning that it will last longer and require fewer repairs and replacements.
Stainless steel's sturdiness also means that it can be laid over longer stretches than copper, a benefit of particular interest to owners of larger buildings. Longer pipes mean fewer connections, and fewer connections mean less leaking and less overall maintenance.
Stainless steel also has a lower coefficient of friction, meaning it yields higher water pressure at the point of use and is safer for drinking, with any leaching chemicals well below recommended limits.
And if these cost-reducing and health factors aren't enough, business and home owners will be happy to know that stainless steel is completely recyclable material. After its use, or if a piece needs to be replaced, the old pipe may be sold to recoup some of its original cost.
Whether stainless steel pipes will begin flooding the market in the years to come is yet to be seen. However, one thing is certain: for copper, the pressure is on.
St. Louis Pipe & Supply is who you want to contact for OCTG and industrial steel supply needs. They have competitive stainless steel pipe prices and a large grades selection including chrome, low temp, nickle alloys, and carbon pipe. St. Louis Pipe & Supply also handles international logistics and will meet or exceed ASTM, ASME, ANSI and/or API standards, per your required specifications. Contact St.Louis Pipe & Supply today!
No one ever thinks about the existing plumbing when they move into a home. If it is working, why worry about it? What you may not realize is that while the rest of your home ages, so do the pipes, and that there may be a host of potential problems cropping up in the future that would be worth avoiding now, simply by replacing copper and galvanized steel pipes now. We will explain what plumbing problems can be caused by these pipes, and how you could benefit by doing the necessary replacements now.
Types of Plumbing Lines
Most homes are constructed with two types of plumbing lines in them. The first type of line, drain lines are the ones most likely to cause problems in the future. The second type, water lines are usually not as problematic, but will have their own issues down the road. When you look at replacing copper and galvanized steel pipes, it is a good idea to understand the reasoning behind it. Most homes today have copper plumbing being used for the house water lines, primarily because they do not corrode as rapidly as iron, steel, or galvanized steel pipes.
Unfortunately, older homes will have been constructed with iron or galvanized pipes, and should be replaced with copper piping as soon as possible. The first sign that usually crops up is that the drains begin to clog easily, and are not easy to clear when they do. This is because iron and steel corrode easily, and will build up mineral residue inside them as they break down. You will know that the water pipes have been affected when you begin to lose pressure, and the water tastes odd.
The Ravages of Age
For some, even the constant clogging and loss of water pressure is not enough incentive to even begin thinking about having copper repiping done. It may seem to be an unnecessary expense, or along the lines of "if it isn't broke, why fix it?" thinking, something that most people will blame on outside agencies rather than their own plumbing first. There are times that the source of water to the home may experience low pressure, usually during drought conditions, but such effects are very temporary, and never constant.
Over time, if left alone, the signs of aging iron and galvanized pipes will steadily grow worse. Soon, you will begin to find moist or damp spots within the structure of your home, on concrete floors, in the drywall, and especially within any wooden walls or floors. The water coming out of the pipes will continue to darken, becoming discolored as the minerals build up and the metal continues to rust. The end result of this will be foul smelling water that no one wants to drink, cook with or bathe in. Finally, the corrosion will build to a point where pipes will begin to leak, break and burst. The cost of repiping just got elevated higher than it would have been previously.
The Easy Solution
Refitting the corroded piping with copper is the easiest solution, and will restore your home's plumbing quickly into functioning as it should be. Copper does not rust or corrode as easily as iron or steel, and any qualified plumbing contractor will be able to tell you how much you will need to correct any current issues, and how much it will cost to do so. Most iron piping only has a lifespan of thirty years, from installation, and steel only around forty years. Copper has a far longer lifespan, and will last nearly forever, barring accidents.
Immediate benefits of replacing copper and galvanized steel piping will be evident in the restoration of proper water pressure, better tasting water, and less clogs popping up in the drainage pipes. Over time, you will also see a reduction in your monthly water costs, as you will see no more leaking pipes, backed up drains or seepage under the foundation of the home. Want to save money on water? Replace as much of your plumbing as you can with copper piping.
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